Curved Shower rod installation on tile....

Discussion in 'Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog' started by Wildduk, Aug 26, 2011.

  1. Wildduk

    Wildduk New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    Atlanta
    I have installed a few curved shower rods before, but all on drywall.....My new house, I would like to install one, but it will have to be installed on the tile.....

    Should there be any issues with this? Maybe use a Special bit and or use "drywall type anchors" in the tile.. Or if there is a stud behind the tile, I guess I could use longer screws to get to the stud....

    My main concern is not cracking the tile when I drill, and also when I screw into the tile......

    Thx
  2. johnfrwhipple

    johnfrwhipple I love these ACO Shower Drains - Best in Class

    Messages:
    3,821
    Location:
    North Vancouver, BC
    Not cracking the tile is key.

    The bit and the hole placement are key to achieving this.

    If the tile was installed poorly it can crack when you tighten down your screws.

    Try not to drill through the edge of tile. Grout lines are best.

    A glass and tile bit can often do the job but some types of tile require special diamond core bits.

    What type of tile are you up against?

    JW
  3. Wildduk

    Wildduk New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    Atlanta
    It appears to be just 12x12 ceramic tile.....I should be able to position it about 3" from the edge so I don't see any isues there....

    Would it help to try and attach to a stud if there is one behind the tile????
  4. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

    Messages:
    3,839
    Location:
    NW Ontario, Canada
    It's always good to go into a stud if there is one in the right place but what are the chances you'll hit a stud on both sides? To avoid breaking wall tile, I use a diamond bit in a Dremel tool. Most drywall inserts don't expand the first 1/4" so there is little risk of it breaking the tile. Impact drilling with a carbide bit is more likely to break the tile as is overtightening the screw into a stud if there is any sort of void behind the tile.
  5. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    21,824
    Location:
    New England
    Porcelain is a type of ceramic that is very hard, and a diamond bit may be required to cut it with any ease. You may be lucky and a glass and tile bit will work on your tile. They do make those in carbide and diamond coated as well, which would work better than the hardened steel versions you sometimes find (and won't likely dent a good porcelain). The top end is a diamond core bit - sort of looks like a piece of pipe with diamonds on one end. This will cut literally anything if you keep the bit lubricated and don't try to horse it through. Make sure that the hole is properly positions and large enough so that the screw itself isn't tight against the edge, or you are likely to chip or crack the tile. If you can screw it into a stud, all the better. A wall anchor otherwise would work. One wall anchor that I've found that is really good (but large!) is made by www.wingits.com. Especially if you are doing something like doing an add-on safety bar where you didn't install blocking for it. They make a bunch of different styles to fit different wall thickensses and types and holding power.
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