Cloest flange question

[adamw]

I had a leak from my master bath toilet which was causing stains on the ceiling in the room below. It appears that it was coming from where the wax ring is. So I have the toilet out, I had to remove tile and subfloor from around it because the subfloor had rotted out. Now I'm ready to put the floor back together and have a couple of concerns.

1) I know the flange needs to be screwed into the floor below, so that means one of two things. I'll either have to remove the flange cut the new subfloor to have a hole the same width as the drain pipe or if I leave the flange in place I'll have to cut that subfloor piece in half to get it under the flange. I don't like option 2 because I don't feel like it will be as strong. Which do you think is the better solution?

2) When I put a level over the flange and the tile, I can tell that the top of the flange is flush with the top of the tile. Is this correct? From what I've been reading around here the optimal setup is that the flange sits on top of the finished floor surface. So which is best? Do I need to raise the flange to be on top of the tile when installed?

3) If I need to get the old flange out to either get the subfloor in place and/or to raise it, what is the best way to get it out?

Picture is attached.

Thanks!

 

[Gary Swart]

The pros here may have a different approach to this, but here's what I'd do. Since you have easy access to the drain line, I'd cut the pipe off and start fresh. This would allow you to make no more hole than necessary in the sub floor and tile and you will be able to position the flange on top of the tiles as recommended. You may want to notch the tile for the screws which should go through the tile and into or through the sub floor. I prefer #12 stainless steel screws for this. The new flange should be one with a stainless steel ring as well.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Rich B]

I'd use one of these after I cut the old el off. Set down a new piece of plywood subfloor and a new flange. You can cut it down a little if it's to high........add the right flange and your done.....

 

[adamw]

So cut the drain pipe off where the current elbow meets the straight pipe?
Then I'd have the issue that the new elbow/flange will be too close to the wall. I'd have to extend the straight pipe, first, wouldn't I?

 

[Rich B]

Cut it back far enough to add a coupling with a short piece of pvc to the closet flange hub end. Dry fit it to get your spacing correct off the wall. Mark or measure the center line of the flange before you cut off the existing stuff. If your reusing the same toilet and are happy with how it was spaced off the wall set it all right where the old flange was.


P.S. I am not a plumber. This is not a difficult repair in my opinion....

 

[Jadnashua]

Dry fitting will make things short! It is nearly impossible to seat a pipe in a 4" (or 3") fitting until it has the cement on it to soften and lubricate it. So, measure the depth of the fittings.

I'd do as suggested, cut the elbow and fitting off, then rebuild as required. You might have enough length after the coupling, but probably not. Try to get the flange centered at 12" from the finished wall edge, and you'll have a full selection of toilets to install there. You may want to verify first the existing toilet is at 12". If for some reason it was at 10" and you moved it to 12", you'd end up with a big gap, or if the other way around, (14"), then it wouldn't fit if you moved it to 12". if you use a nohub connection rather than a coupling, you'll have a little more flexibility, but it costs a bunch more than a coupling. small in the scheme of things, though.

 

[Gary Swart]

You can use regular PVC fittings and pipe, but don't dry fit. PVC can not be dry fit and then disassembled. Measure carefully and hold the pieces together for a few seconds until the solvent weld sets up when you assemble the joints. Otherwise the joints will tend to push apart. You could use a banded coupler as suggested, but it is unnecessary if you can measure and cut accurately. I'd cut the pipe back several inches and use a short piece of pipe and a coupler to restore the length needed.

 

[adamw]

While I probably could do this, first I'd have to buy or rent a reciprocating saw. Then I'd have to get all the right supplies, glue, etc. So, I'm just going to hire a pro to take care of it. Got a guy coming tonight.

Thanks for the advice gang!

 

[Gary Swart]

Having a pro do the job is the safest thing to do alright, can't fault you for that. For future reference however, I would point out that PVC can be cut very simply with a length of fine cable that is sold for this purpose in most any hardware or plumbing store. You just slip it around the bottom of the pipe and seesaw while pulling up. Saws are not the best tool unless you are just demoing the pipes. Saws leave too much burring and require room to move the saw. Watch what the plumber uses. I'll bet he uses the cable tool.

 

[adamw]

Having a pro do the job is the safest thing to do alright, can't fault you for that. For future reference however, I would point out that PVC can be cut very simply with a length of fine cable that is sold for this purpose in most any hardware or plumbing store. You just slip it around the bottom of the pipe and seesaw while pulling up. Saws are not the best tool unless you are just demoing the pipes. Saws leave too much burring and require room to move the saw. Watch what the plumber uses. I'll bet he uses the cable tool.

Good tip! Thanks. I'll let ya know what the guy uses.

 

[adamw]

Having a pro do the job is the safest thing to do alright, can't fault you for that. For future reference however, I would point out that PVC can be cut very simply with a length of fine cable that is sold for this purpose in most any hardware or plumbing store. You just slip it around the bottom of the pipe and seesaw while pulling up. Saws are not the best tool unless you are just demoing the pipes. Saws leave too much burring and require room to move the saw. Watch what the plumber uses. I'll bet he uses the cable tool.

You were completely right! Piece of wire. Took him 15 seconds. He was here for only 20 minutes tonight, and will be back to install the flange, replace the inlet value and re-install the toilet when I'm done with the floor. He told me on the phone last night, 1 - 1/2 hours total. Sounds on track so far.
I probably could have done this, but it is nice to have a pro!