Can you ID this shut off valve connection type?

Discussion in 'Toilet Forum discussions' started by NotSoHandyman, Aug 23, 2010.

  1. NotSoHandyman

    NotSoHandyman New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Location:
    Philadelphia PA
    My have a leaky shut off valve on my toilet. Thing is, I can't determine if the valve connection is soldered or threaded. Other important details: it has the inscriptions "CRAFT brass" and "DC" on the valve.

    It appears to be a chromed copper pipe that is tapered at the end that feeds into the valve. Is it an "all in one piece" or can I unscrew the valve from the supply line coming out of the floor? Or is the joint soldered? There is no visible evidence of solder or plumber's putty or tape (that I can see anyway).

    What can you tell me about this joint? Thank you!

    Attached Files:

  2. Gary Swart

    Gary Swart In the Trades

    Messages:
    7,360
    Location:
    Yakima WA
    I can't answer your question for sure, it may be soldered, but here's what I'd do. Cut the pipe and replace the valve with a new 1.4 turn one, and I'd go clear to the floor so none of the copper pipe is exposed. Perhaps some of the pros will chime in on that valve connection.
  3. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,153
    Location:
    New England
    It sure looks like it is soldered on. What I'd do first is take some fine emery cloth and sand the pipe for about an inch all around to see if it really is copper and you can clean it up. If it is copper (sure looks like it), then you have a choice of either using a new solder valve, or a compression valve. Once you cut off the existing one, you can slide that corroded bell eschution off and replace it in the process. Brasscraft makes a nice chrome plated valve that would slide over the copper (it has about a 5" shaft). Unfortuneately, it isn't a 1/4-turn valve, but would look good. You can also find chrome plated sleeves to cover the pipe if you don't want to have the valve lower down, right at the (new) eschution you should slide on before a new valve is installed. You'll need a longer hose to connect back to the toilet, but those are readily available. If after sanding the pipe, you find it is banged up or pitted, you'd need to solder, as a compression fitting needs nice, smooth, clean pipe to seal to. If the pipe is really bad, you'd need to probably replace it (which could get ugly, depending on access from below).
  4. Jerome2877

    Jerome2877 In the Trades

    Messages:
    397
    Location:
    BC
    Yes its soldered, there's solder all over the copper pipe in fact. So what I would do is cut the pipe down a bit, use my torch to melt the solder and wipe it clean, then use a 1/4 turn compression valve and your done.
  5. NotSoHandyman

    NotSoHandyman New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Location:
    Philadelphia PA
    Thanks for the input guys. Really appreciate your help. Once I complete the job, I'll post some awful "after" pics to demonstrate my handiness (or lack thereof). Cheers!
  6. zl700

    zl700 DIY Senior Member

    Messages:
    237
    Location:
    Texas
    No one remembers tinning flux?

    Thats a copper pipe tinned by an old timer (bad job though)
  7. Gary Swart

    Gary Swart In the Trades

    Messages:
    7,360
    Location:
    Yakima WA
    There's a couple of other ways to hide the old copper. Easiest way is to cut the copper low enough that the new valve will set on top of the chrome plate. You'd need a longer supply line, but that's easily done, too. Another way would be to cut the copper short, solder a female adapter to it then add a chrome pipe nipple. That would be a bit more work and expense than the first way, but the valve would be above the floor.
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