Can this valve be rebuilt (or other ideas)?

[GBH]

Hi. I've been in my house since 1997. The pictures shown have been this way the entire time. The red handle sends water to the sprinkler manifold. After blowing out the sprinklers this year the red handle valve is leaking a bit. I have a bucket under the blue handle valve for the time being. It needs to be emptied daily.

I've always hated this set up for probably obvious reasons. To me it looks like a nightmare disaster waiting to occur. Questions:

1. The red handle valve has the following markings: 125S 200W00. Can this valve be rebuilt in place?

2. The better solution, I imagine, is to redo this line so there isn't an obvious failure point directly above the breaker panel. Is it OK to run the line above the panel as long as there is no valve in that location?

Regards,
Gary

 

[Sylvan]

If the valves holds and all that is drippings is the packing gland there is no problem.

Remove the handle and then the NUT and remove all the packing from the nut ( packing gland) and use graphite or Teflon packing (round packing)

Ideally when you install the packing use use it 180 DEG each piece and retighten the nut GENTLY

OR take a chance and just tighten the nut under the handle until the drip stops GENTLY do not over tighten as the nut may split

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

Ideally when you install the packing use use it 180 DEG each piece and retighten the nut GENTLY

Why not 720 degrees or more? That is what I have done.

 

[wwhitney]

2. The better solution, I imagine, is to redo this line so there isn't an obvious failure point directly above the breaker panel. Is it OK to run the line above the panel as long as there is no valve in that location?

No, the electrical code requires that the volume directly above and below the panel be dedicated to the electrical installation, with no other systems installed there (dedicated space, 110.26(E)). So ~4" deep x ~14" wide, extending from the floor up to the bottom of the joists. It also requires working space in front of the panel, which is 30" wide, 36" deep, and 80" tall, starting at the face of the panel (110.26(A)).

The proper solution is to reroute the water line through the joists above. If it's still in a location where a water leak could hit the panel, then it should get a leak shield to protect the panel.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Sylvan]

Why not 720 degrees or more? That is what I have done.

Think of it as pouring a cast iron joint Each strand of oakum is placed in a U shape and the next strand opposite etc.

Until the correct depth is accomplished (1" lead joint)

When working on high pressure steam #125 for example last thing people want is the valve scored by a steam leak

When you use ONE strand and keep placing it around and around you do not get the same integrity as the strands are placed @ 12 o'clock then 6 o'clock then 3 then 9

 

[TheOverThinker]

No, the electrical code requires that the volume directly above and below the panel be dedicated to the electrical installation, with no other systems installed there (dedicated space, 110.26(E)).

Ah, but there's an exception. In short, for the OP consider building what amounts to a water shedding roof going behind the valve and over all the wires.

 

[wwhitney]

Ah, but there's an exception. In short, for the OP consider building what amounts to a water shedding roof going behind the valve and over all the wires.

I see no such exception in 2020 NEC 110.26(E).

Cheers, Wayne

(E) Dedicated Equipment Space. All switchboards, switchgear, panelboards, and motor control centers shall be located in dedicated spaces and protected from damage.
Exception: Control equipment that by its very nature or because of other rules of the Code must be adjacent lo or within sight of its operating machinery shall be permitted in those locations.
(1) Indoor. Indoor installations shall comply with 110.26(E)(1)(a) through (E)(1)(d).
(a) Dedicated Electrical Space. The space equal to the width and deptl1 of the equipment and extending from tl1e floor to a height of 1.8 m (6 ft) above the equipment or to the structural ceiling, whichever is lower, shall be dedicated to the electrical installation. No piping, ducts, leak protection apparatus, or other equipment foreign to tl1e electrical installation shall be located in this zone.
Exception: Susf1ended ceilings with removable panels shall be permitted within the 1.8-m (6-ft) zone.
(b) Foreign Systems. The area above the dedicated space required by 110.26(E)(1)(a) shall be permitted to contain foreign systems, provided protection is installed to avoid drainage to the electrical equipment from condensation, leaks, or breaks in such foreign systems.
(c) Sprinkler Protection. Sprinkler protection shall be permitted for tl1e dedicated space where tl1e piping complies with this section.
(d) Suspended Ceilings. A dropped, suspended, or similar ceiling tl1at does not add strengtl1 to the building structure shall not be considered a structural ceiling.

 

[James Henry]

The solder job looks fairly good, I can't believe a real plumber would install that there. Also, you never install a globe valve (hose bib) upside down, it becomes a sediment trap and will cause the hose bib to drip.

 

[GBH]

Thanks to all of you for the replies. Seems my assumption about the pipe above the breaker was correct.

To Sylvan: If by the valve holding you mean water is not passing it, that is not correct. Water is leaking past the valve and is dripping out the open valve/faucet a few feet further down the line. Does this alter your opinion/suggestion about the ability to repair/rebuild the valve in place?

I've long wanted to relocate an outside faucet that is currently next to the front door to the side of the house instead. That work would be in the same area as my leaking valve. I'll get an estimate for everything, but man, I've been hopeful I'd be able to put off this and some other jobs until the world returns to normal.

 

[Sylvan]

Yes the stem and gate can be replaced with the valve body staying in place BUT it does not pay .

It would be cheaper to just replace the valve with a ball type

The only reason did replace the stem and gate was in building's that had Yellow brass risers and branches and the piping was very brittle so it did not pay to to try to replace the tile stops

You have copper tubing so it is an easy replacement

 

[GBH]

Thank you for the follow-up, Sylvan. I'm thinking I'll just empty buckets for now since it's Thanksgiving week. I don't want to get myself in a bind having to find a plumber this week. Repairing the valve or replacing with a ball type are both in my skill set, but if something goes wrong I'm without water until it is fixed. Seems safer to wait for the Monday morning after Thanksgiving to give it a shot in case I need to bring in a pro. That is my short-term plan. Longer term I'm going to have someone reroute that line in accordance with the codes wwhitney outlined.

Thanks again to all of you who chimed in. I don't come here often, but when I do it is always helpful.

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

I can't believe a real plumber would install that there.

The tie in connection is the hall mark of a landscaper. That dresser fitting is something I've seen landscapers use to make connection to water mains outside of a home.. not inside where that isn't a legal install.