Can I rebuilding a deep well pump?

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog' started by BrianK, Jun 6, 2012.

  1. BrianK

    BrianK New Member

    Messages:
    26
    Location:
    Calgary, Alberta, Canada
    Can I rebuild a deep well submersible pump?

    I replaced my Jacuzzi well pump (10 gpm,230vac, 3 wire). It was 35 years old and I thought I should replace it when the weather was good rather than wait for it to fail sometime which of course would be in winter with the wind blowing. The pump still works so - I'm wondering if there is any way to re-build the pump side. The built in check valve is doesn't work any more either. I removed the motor which seems fine - the shaft spins easily so that indicates the bearings in the motor are good. So I'd like to change bearings, the check valves etc in the 'wet end' and keep this pump as a spare. I've looked and looked and can't see a way to open the pump up and get at the impellors/check valve etc. Has anyone done this or is it factory sealed and not serviceable. It does still work and I could put on an external check valve. (I know - this sounds silly but I don't like throwing out something that is still working)
    Thanks for your help.
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2012
  2. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,583
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    No small submersibles made after 1970 can be repaired. You can take it apart and inspect it. You can possibly get it put back together. But you won’t find any parts unless you salvage off a pump that is in worse shape than yours. There is just a bushing in the top of the motor, no ball bearing. The bottom will have a Kingsbury type thrust bearing. (Graphite and Teflon shoes with a Stainless plate running on them) New ones would be polished like a mirror if you want a comparison. The main problem is the windings. It is called a canned stator. Which is copper winding encased in epoxy. When the stator gets hot, it swells up, and never goes back to its former size. This causes drag on the rotor, grinds off particles, and things just get worse from there. And it is a water filled motor. If the water leaks out the seal or diaphragm is bad. If the water doesn’t leak out, the motor will freeze if you leave it in the shed.

    If the pump is good you can put another motor on it. If not, replacing impellers will cost you more than a new pump.

    You can have fun and learn some things by taking it apart. But I wouldn’t count on it making a very good spare.
  3. BrianK

    BrianK New Member

    Messages:
    26
    Location:
    Calgary, Alberta, Canada
    Thanks Valveman. I didn't see any way to take either the motor or the wet end apart. I didn't realize the motor was water filled so I will store it in the basement so it won't freeze in the winter. The motor turns really smooth with no signs or drag or friction so that indicates the bushings are in good shape - which really surprizes me after 35 years. The shaft on the pump "wet end" on the other hand is a bit loose so I won't use this pump on a full time basis - just an emergency spare if the new one ever fails or perhaps at a neighbours place. (but then the best thing to do is probably put in a new pump and not waste the effort).
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