Bypass Shower Door- Bottom Track Not Sitting Flush

Discussion in 'Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog' started by WantToBeDone, Aug 6, 2013.

  1. WantToBeDone

    WantToBeDone New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Location:
    Maryland
    I am installing a Sterling bypass shower door on a Maax 48" fiberglass base. The bottom track has a 1/4" + gap between the pan and the aluminum (track). The sides of the pan are flat (not rounded) and the track sits directly on the fiberglass at both ends. The door installation instructions say to file or grind the aluminum to eliminate gaps, but this would be a LOT of skilled grinding at both ends to eliminate a 1/4" gap.

    The track is flexible enough that I think I could weight it down and get silicone to hold it down, but I'm afraid that would impact the operation of the door (binding, wont stay closed). Another option would be to get some type of shim/spacer to support the center of the track and use white silicone to seal/hide the gap.

    Unfortunately, the pan is plumbed and tiled-in. Ripping it out isn't really an option at this point. Short of getting a shower curtain, any ideas?

    I was trying to get the door installed before the weekend as I have guests coming. All input and ideas are welcome. Thanks in advance.
  2. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,487
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    Without seeing it to actually see why the ends make contact but the center does not, there is no way to answer your question. IT would be very unusual for the shower's sill to be "sway backed", unless it was defective and made that way.
  3. WantToBeDone

    WantToBeDone New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Location:
    Maryland
    I will post a picture tonight or tomorrow. If email is easier, please provide an address. Thanks.
  4. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    21,892
    Location:
    New England
    It's not uncommon for the transition from the curb to the side walls to have a rounded profile. If you take a straight-edge and make it shorter than the opening by say an inch or so, does it sit flat? If so, then what you have is common...you'd have to either grind or file the bottom outer edge of the track to fit that profile. Other than that, we'd have to see what you have.
  5. step2

    step2 New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Location:
    Pittsburgh
    Hi,
    I just read your post on terrylove.com regarding a bypass shower door not sitting on the tub correctly. I am installing one now and I am having the same issue. How did you finally fix the problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated before I totally screw this thing up by filing it incorrectly.
    Thanks,
    T
  6. johnfrwhipple

    johnfrwhipple I love these ACO Shower Drains - Best in Class

    Messages:
    3,944
    Location:
    North Vancouver, BC
    Do you have a bench grinder. Then you need only hold the track and not the tool.

    I use my bench grinder all the time for fine tuning linear drain lengths. Often we will cut the ends off a larger linear drain to fit a smaller sized shower opening. This requires the exact same operation. A little rounding in the corners where the wall waterproofing rolls up from floor to wall.
  7. cacher_chick

    cacher_chick Test, Don't Guess!

    Messages:
    3,244
    Location:
    Land of Cheese
    The top of the track must be flat for the door to work properly. The bottom of the ends of the track must be contoured to fit using a grinder.
    If you have a MAXX shower base, you would have been better off with a MAXX door. The Sterling doors are not nearly as good in fit/finish/operation.
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