Brett_24
New Member
I am attempting to help some friends (a couple) find the problem with their water system. I took a look at it today. Here is what I found.
Pump: Franklin 1HP 230V Submersible (w/ control box near tank)
Tank: Goulds V250 83.5 gallon
Pressure Switch: 40/60 (forgot to check brand)
Well: 240' with pump at 230'
The pump and tank were installed (as replacements) in December of 2000.
The owner stated that he knows the recharge rate of the well is slow (he said 1 gallon per minute). I don't know how he acquired that information.
Here are the problems:
1. Air is being introduced into the system.
2. The pump will turn itself off allowing pressure in the tank to drop to zero.
3. Pressure in the system drops at a rate of about 2 pounds per minute when no household water is being used. So pressure can drop to zero even if nobody is at home.
I'm new at deep wells, so please tell me if I'm off with my assumptions that follow.
Numbers 1 (above) indicated to me a leak in the system, or very low water level in the well.
Number 2 indicated to me that the thermally-protected pump is shutting itself off.
Number 3 seems to indicate a leak in the system (perhaps a check valve).
I pulled the well cap and put my ear on top, thinking I would be able to hear any water splashing from a leak (if it were above the water level in the well shaft). It was perfectly quiet (very quiet neighborhood, so it was easy to listen).
I read, I believe on this forum, you can drop a tethered float into the well to check the water level. I can't do that in this well because round spacers were used to keep the pipe and wires centered in the casing.
My best guess so far is that the water level and pump level are about the same, and that the pump begins to pump a water/air combination, becoming mostly air, and the pump heats up and shuts itself off.
This does not explain the drop in water pressure however, unless the check valve is bad (I'm assuming the check valve is at the pump).
They told me that when they find the tank with zero pressure, and the pump not running, they lift on the activation lever (don't know the real name of the lever) on the side of the pressure switch, and that gets the pump going again.
Again, I'm nothing close to an expert here, so if I'm way off please let me know.
Thanks.
Brett
Pump: Franklin 1HP 230V Submersible (w/ control box near tank)
Tank: Goulds V250 83.5 gallon
Pressure Switch: 40/60 (forgot to check brand)
Well: 240' with pump at 230'
The pump and tank were installed (as replacements) in December of 2000.
The owner stated that he knows the recharge rate of the well is slow (he said 1 gallon per minute). I don't know how he acquired that information.
Here are the problems:
1. Air is being introduced into the system.
2. The pump will turn itself off allowing pressure in the tank to drop to zero.
3. Pressure in the system drops at a rate of about 2 pounds per minute when no household water is being used. So pressure can drop to zero even if nobody is at home.
I'm new at deep wells, so please tell me if I'm off with my assumptions that follow.
Numbers 1 (above) indicated to me a leak in the system, or very low water level in the well.
Number 2 indicated to me that the thermally-protected pump is shutting itself off.
Number 3 seems to indicate a leak in the system (perhaps a check valve).
I pulled the well cap and put my ear on top, thinking I would be able to hear any water splashing from a leak (if it were above the water level in the well shaft). It was perfectly quiet (very quiet neighborhood, so it was easy to listen).
I read, I believe on this forum, you can drop a tethered float into the well to check the water level. I can't do that in this well because round spacers were used to keep the pipe and wires centered in the casing.
My best guess so far is that the water level and pump level are about the same, and that the pump begins to pump a water/air combination, becoming mostly air, and the pump heats up and shuts itself off.
This does not explain the drop in water pressure however, unless the check valve is bad (I'm assuming the check valve is at the pump).
They told me that when they find the tank with zero pressure, and the pump not running, they lift on the activation lever (don't know the real name of the lever) on the side of the pressure switch, and that gets the pump going again.
Again, I'm nothing close to an expert here, so if I'm way off please let me know.
Thanks.
Brett