220 V well timer. Where can I find one?

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Thinkly

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EDIT: Actually this is a 115V 15 amp switch. My mistake.

I have a lawn irrigation well that has a 220 pump. Currently i use it to water the lawn. The well is turned on/off with a single throw switch mounted in a single box on the side of the house. I would like to be able to turn the well on and have it turn off at a predetermined period of time.

Example: I am leaving home at lunch to go back to work. I sprinklers (not in ground) in the front yard, and i want to start the well, and have them run for 45 minutes and then shut off. I know a sprinkler controller will do this but i want a simpler mech. I would think there would be something like a wound timer etc. that would work but i can't find online.
 
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Billy_Bob

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If you can't find one, you could use a 120 volt single pole timer to operate a double pole contactor which is activated by 120 volts. A contactor is a relay, but is designed to be mounted in a large electrical box.

Be sure the contacts or switches on the contactor have a high enough amperage rating which will handle the load of your pump.

How relays work...
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&safe=off&q=how+relays+work&btnG=Search&aq=f&aql=&aqi=g1&oq=

Contactors...
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&safe=off&q=120v+contactor+dpst&aq=f&aql=&aqi=&oq=
 

Thinkly

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If you can't find one, you could use a 120 volt single pole timer to operate a double pole contactor which is activated by 120 volts. A contactor is a relay, but is designed to be mounted in a large electrical box.

Be sure the contacts or switches on the contactor have a high enough amperage rating which will handle the load of your pump.

How relays work...
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&safe=off&q=how+relays+work&btnG=Search&aq=f&aql=&aqi=g1&oq=

Contactors...
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&safe=off&q=120v+contactor+dpst&aq=f&aql=&aqi=&oq=


I must already have what you describe because upon further inspection, i learned that i currently have a 115V 15 amp switch currently in place. Here it is: http://www.farm-home.com/mn/v11_catalog.mvc?FRGL07+selectldr+ECB+001120+JDISTRIB1051-0857~~~~~~~
 

Billy_Bob

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You're probably best to hire an electrician for this project.
 

hj

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If you are controlling a 220v pump with a 115v switch, you must only be breaking one leg of the circuit which is HIGHLY unsafe, improper, and illegal. If you want to keep using your circuitry that way, any "spring wound" timer, often used in public restrooms, will replace the switch.
 

JWelectric

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Any switch that is used to control a motor needs to be rated in horse power not amperage.
A timer that is not properly sized will not last very long with constant use.
If one does not understand this they should seek the help of a professional and in this case it would be an electrician.
Some things should not be attempted by a do-it-yourself but needs to be referred to a professional. If this pump in not important to you then by all means jury-rig it in any manner you want.
 

Thinkly

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img0113d.jpg


The existing switch is a 115v 15 amp switch. It goes to the box above it which is faded but i can read "220v 3/4 hp". So my assumption is that any old switch that is 115v 15 amp will suffice. Wrong? I understand DC a lot better than AC, but that is what i get out of it.
 

JWelectric

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430.109 Type.
The disconnecting means shall be a type specified in 430.109(A), unless otherwise permitted in 430.109(B) through (G), under the conditions specified.
(A) General.
(1) Motor Circuit Switch. A listed motor-circuit switch rated in horsepower.
(2) Molded Case Circuit Breaker. A listed molded case circuit breaker.
(3) Molded Case Switch. A listed molded case switch.
(4) Instantaneous Trip Circuit Breaker. An instantaneous trip circuit breaker that is part of a listed combination motor controller.
(5) Self-Protected Combination Controller. Listed self-protected combination controller.
(6) Manual Motor Controller. Listed manual motor controllers additionally marked “Suitable as Motor Disconnect” shall be permitted as a disconnecting means where installed between the final motor branch-circuit short-circuit protective device and the motor. Listed manual motor controllers additionally marked “Suitable as Motor Disconnect” shall be permitted as disconnecting means on the line side of the fuses permitted in 430.52(C)(5). In this case, the fuses permitted in 430.52(C)(5) shall be considered supplementary fuses, and suitable branch-circuit short-circuit and ground-fault protective devices shall be installed on the line side of the manual motor controller additionally marked “Suitable as Motor Disconnect.”
(7) System Isolation Equipment. System isolation equipment shall be listed for disconnection purposes. System isolation equipment shall be installed on the load side of the overcurrent protection and its disconnecting means. The disconnecting means shall be one of the types permitted by 430.109(A)(1) through (A)(3).
(B) Stationary Motors of Horsepower or Less. For stationary motors of hp or less, the branch-circuit overcurrent device shall be permitted to serve as the disconnecting means.
(C) Stationary Motors of 2 Horsepower or Less. For stationary motors rated at 2 hp or less and 300 volts or less, the disconnecting means shall be permitted to be one of the devices specified in (1), (2), or (3):
(1) A general-use switch having an ampere rating not less than twice the full-load current rating of the motor
(2) On ac circuits, a general-use snap switch suitable only for use on ac (not general-use ac–dc snap switches) where the motor full-load current rating is not more than 80 percent of the ampere rating of the switch
(3) A listed manual motor controller having a horsepower rating not less than the rating of the motor and marked “Suitable as Motor Disconnect”
 

Thinkly

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The other thing is that the switch COULD be a double pole switch and still LOOK like a single pole as far as that operating lever is concerned.

What would the second pole be for? It says 115v on the switch cover.
 

Cacher_Chick

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A single pole switch could only be wired to one of the two phases, meaning the pump has an energized leg even when the switch is off.
 

Thinkly

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A single pole switch could only be wired to one of the two phases, meaning the pump has an energized leg even when the switch is off.

If it were wired to both phases wouldn't my switch say 220v? Guess that is what i am getting at. :confused:
 

Cacher_Chick

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Let me first correct myself as I said "phases" when I should have said "energized conductors" (cya)

I believe the pump is a 220V pump.

Judging by the picture, the installed switch does NOT meet code for a motor disconnect and should be corrected. A timer installed in a similar matter would also NOT meet code.

Based on what you have and what you want, I too recommend you hire an electrician.
 
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Ballvalve

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Before you do anything check how the pump is wired. [Test the voltage at the pump] Most if not all sprinkler pumps may be connected for 120v. You will still have a hard time getting a decent priced timer with as short as a 45 minute seting with motor rating.
 
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