11 yr old drop pipe and wire reusable on 220ft pump swap......?

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog' started by xlr8tion, Apr 9, 2012.

  1. xlr8tion

    xlr8tion P.E. (Professional Engineer)

    Messages:
    58
    Location:
    SC
    My 11 yr old Grundfos 16S15-14 (2 wire 16 gpm 1.5hp) pump bought it and I have Silverline SCH 80 PVC drop pipe (220ft) and I think 14/2 non braided cable.

    The drop pipe is 1.35/foot (300 w/fittings) and the cable I cant find a quote on)not sure if it is 14 or 12 gauge)....


    The guy I am using claims he can reuse the drop pipe, fittings, and wire?

    I got a great deal on the pump (630 bucks) so I can afford to replace the pipe and wire so I am wondering what you guys think it is necessary or a waste o cash. What are the odds of the pipe going bad after 11 yrs if it is Silverline SCH 80?


    Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!

    BTW...I ordered a new Simmons 4"x1.25" split well seal and 40/60 Pumptrol. The well seal was corroded as hades!!!!!!!!!!
  2. Texas Wellman

    Texas Wellman In the Trades

    Messages:
    537
    Location:
    SE Texas-Coastal
    I re-use wire and pipe all the time.

    Just have him check the wire real good as you're going back in the hole for "bruises". Nicks, cuts, kinks, etc.

    Porky suggests turning the wire around so the old bottom goes to the top and vice versa.

    14-ga wire sounds too small....Might double check to see that it's 12ga. I never use 14 ga even if it's in spec....always go with 12.
  3. xlr8tion

    xlr8tion P.E. (Professional Engineer)

    Messages:
    58
    Location:
    SC
    Thanks TW.....

    Your sound advice and expertise is certainly appreciated. Will check the wire gauge and reverse the wire as you suggested!


    Have a fantastic day!


    Peace!
  4. xlr8tion

    xlr8tion P.E. (Professional Engineer)

    Messages:
    58
    Location:
    SC
    Brass 1-1/4" couplers on drop pipe......

    I've read that PVC SCH 80/120 couplers are not to be reused as thy may have cracked during the initial install.

    Do you guys recommend using Brass couplers....?

    I have also read alot of pros and cons on torque arrestors and cable guards. Will either if these help keep the pump off the casing if casing is not perpindiclar? With a 3.9" pump in a 4" casing I want the pump to have THE WHOLE 1.25mm(LOL) concentric space. In SC all casings are canted!

    I greatly respect valveman's wish to keep it simple w/no arrestor but the inside casing can be lubed with a pressure washer with surfactant and the arrestor will not pose a problem-IMHO

    Thanks.......
  5. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

    Messages:
    4,050
    Location:
    NW Ontario, Canada
    I have pulled up my pump and found that the torque arrestor had disintegrated. In my case, I have a 6" casing so not to worry. In a 4" casing a stray piece of rubber could get in the way of the pump coming up.

    As for keeping it perfectly centred, that's not going to happen when there is less than 1/8" to spare. Torque arrestors are just not that precise.

    I would never trust PVC couplers. The couplers are under tension, not compression like their mate (the pipe). Brass if you are not in California or not concerned about lead, otherwise SS.
  6. xlr8tion

    xlr8tion P.E. (Professional Engineer)

    Messages:
    58
    Location:
    SC
    Thanks LL......

    Brass it is and forget the torque arrestor.......! I found out my well driller used galvanized couplings....

    BTW....I have read alot of your posts...enjoy reading your theoretical and practical perspectives.....whats your background?

    All this "well drama" is based on the "superunknown" of the well driller not remembering how he did my job 11 yrs ago.

    First he quoted me 300 to swap the pump (200ft); when he found out I ordered it myself(he wanted 2x as much) he said the job was going to be 200 more.

    I'll build a tripod and pull it myself...my Neighbor has a Kwik Klamp pipe holder.

    Oh.....I am going to mount a 1.25" nipple into the top of the pump so I don't accidentally cut new threads(if I use the pvc drop pipe direct into the pump) and push the check valve flat washer down far enough to prevent it from opening.

    Always something to obsess about w/these projects.

    Anwho..thanks a million...now I am off to find the Brass couplers
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2012
  7. Texas Wellman

    Texas Wellman In the Trades

    Messages:
    537
    Location:
    SE Texas-Coastal
    Nothing wrong with using galv. couplings if the water allows it. It all depends on the chemistry of the water. Take a good look at them when you get them out, if they are in good shape you can re-use them.
  8. ballvalve

    ballvalve General Engineering Contractor

    Messages:
    3,261
    Location:
    northfork, california
    Brass couplings are a crapshoot for quality because of the typical asian source. Try and find some ductile iron [Think fire sprinkler companies] US couplers or SS
  9. xlr8tion

    xlr8tion P.E. (Professional Engineer)

    Messages:
    58
    Location:
    SC
    The SS couplings look like this.....

    Amazon sells them cheaply...They are cast and I think make in china/taiwan.

    http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Ste...0?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1334265276&sr=1-10

    Last night they had a couple hundred 1-1/4"...now they are near out...

    Here's an example of a 304 fitting for 6.39 delivered-the galvanized cost me 2.58 each.

    These SS are not Chamfered and I worry about the casting quality of slave laborers.....

    I ordered the 316L ones for 7 a piece and got a Class 1000 coupling that will attach to my 1-1/4 x4" nipple that will be inserted into the pump head.

    Again I am overthinking this and I can imagine one of these fittings stress fracturing (only a 300PSI W.O.G nominal) and my new pump fall to the the bottom of the aquifer.


    What do you guys think of these fittings?


    I know-go w/galvanized.

    Regards......Greg
  10. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,485
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    Go for it! Looks like a sch 40 coupling to me. Just hope it really looks like the picture.
  11. ballvalve

    ballvalve General Engineering Contractor

    Messages:
    3,261
    Location:
    northfork, california
    If you scroll over a few lines they have a forged monster for 12 bucks.
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