1 Inch PVC Drain Question

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Reach4

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Reach4, do you know of any 1.5" PVC tee's that are female threaded on the two continuous sides and male threaded on the 3rd tee side? Searching all the different sites to find one.
No. That seems like a weird need.
 

Reach4

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Also, whats the correct way to hook up to the stub out with a p trap?
I doubt that a p-trap is the right thing for here. Find out where that pipe goes.

No response on "NextDoor"?
 

mrbeaubo

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Just a couple that said "just p trap it, add a stand pipe and air gap and you're good to go!" Didn't have any knowledge of where it went.
 

mrbeaubo

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I'm dumb, should have figured it out sooner. I wasn't even thinking but that pipe is exactly opposite of my bathroom sinks on the other side of that wall. Also, for more context, the builder has the overflow valve of the water heater draining into the wall space just to the left of this. The pipe goes in the wall and immediately turns down, so either a p trap in the wall or just a down turn. I manually released some water from the water heater T&P valve and put my ear into the cut pipe that we're talking about and got a muffled gurgle of water draining.

I feel pretty comfortable putting in a p-trap for safety just in case and letting it drain from there. Thoughts?
2020-10-21 19.33.49.jpg
 

Reach4

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I feel pretty comfortable putting in a p-trap for safety just in case and letting it drain from there. Thoughts?
That photo you just posted would not make me comfortable, but maybe it is a illusion.
 

mrbeaubo

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My thought is that the way your T&P valve is plumbed is pretty weird, and I would be surprised if it's compliant with your plumbing code.

Cheers, Wayne

I'm going to end up with more problems than I started lol. Let me go get some more pictures of it for clarity.
 

Reach4

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Dang, you know better than me, which part? I just posted a picture of the T&P line.
The T&P line has requirements. You should know where that goes.

Is that copper line connected into the T+P line?
 

mrbeaubo

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Welp. Solved the pipe mystery, runs directly outside and dumps... What do I do now?
20201021_201359.jpg
 

Reach4

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For the softener, hook it up with no p-trap and no air gap, if you were not planning to plant stuff at that output; be happy. Glue a PVC fitting of your choice to that pipe. If you want to plant stuff under that softener drain, re-plumb to run the softener drain line to a sink tailpiece or a washing machine standpipe, and don't use the pipe they provided.

For the water heater, clean that up properly. I don't want to try to define how to make that right, but what you have is very much not right.
 

mrbeaubo

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For the softener, hook it up with no p-trap and no air gap, if you were not planning to plant stuff at that output; be happy. Glue a PVC fitting of your choice to that pipe. If you want to plant stuff under that softener drain, re-plumb to run the softener drain line to a sink tailpiece or a washing machine standpipe, and don't use the pipe they provided.

For the water heater, clean that up properly. I don't want to try to define how to make that right, but what you have is very much not right.

All of this makes sense, thanks Reach4, really appreciate the help.
 

mrbeaubo

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Except Texas is on the IPC, per up.codes.

That loop on the T&P discharge with the braided lines and the corrugated copper portion is very . . . special.

Cheers, Wayne
Any harm with just running it straight down with a new piece of threaded copper and putting a bucket with a water sensor?? I don't want to re use the in wall drain as it's lower diameter than the valve connection!!
 

wwhitney

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Not sure about the bucket, and UPC requires that it go outside (weird, I think), so I'd check what the IPC has to say. But definitely reducing the diameter is not allowed, so don't use the wall penetration.

Cheers, Wayne
 

mrbeaubo

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Except Austin and Houston.

Regarding going outside, not in places that get cold.
I'm city of Leander. I'll try to find it. I would air gap the pan/bucket, just want to buy some time if my sensor alerts me
 
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