Water Closet Rough In Question

[ReefFreak]

Hi- New to the forum. Big time DIY guy, but I haven't done a lot of DWV work.

Scenario: Master bath remodel, 2nd floor, 3" stack turns down right behind the toilet to go to the 1st floor. Toilet is currently plumbed with a low heel elbow on it's back, 2" heel that connects the rest of the fixtures (2 sinks, shower, tub, venting). I'm dealing with 2012 IRC and I know that you can't do this with that fitting, so it has to come out.

My question is how to replace. Can I put a 3" wye on it's back, 45 up to the closet flange, with the straight part of the wye connecting the rest of the fixtures? I'm asking because every drawing I've seen has the closet on the end of the line, in this case it will be in front of the shower, tub, and sinks (which will be properly vented). Or do I put the wye on it's side and run a parallel 3" stack to connect the rest of the fixtures?

Sorry if it's a basic question- thanks for any assistance!

 

[WJcandee]

Take a look at these two guides. Start with Klickitat County and then look at all the great photos in the Bert Polk (Lincoln County) guide. Do up a sketch of what you plan and come back to us. I think you will see the answers to your questions in there...

Helpful Plumbing Hints for Residential Construction by Bert Polk Plumbing Inspector Lincoln County

Plumbing-and-Trenching-for-Homeowners---2018 (klickitatcounty.org)

 

[Sponsor]

 

[hj]

Without knowing how much room you have available, it is impossible to advise you as to what fittings to use.

 

[ReefFreak]

Thanks wjcandee for the links. Attached are some notes on what I'm dealing with. Couple of thoughts- the low heel won't pass code here (2012 irc). Also, I don't think the double tee works on it's side, and the sanitary elbow turning down is a very short sweep. House built in 1986, this work is all original. It needs to come up to code but I don't have much space. I'd like to not have to tear into the wall if possible. Wife already not happy with her "open" dining room ceiling design

Top view of something like:

Fitting drawing something like:

It's tight around the toilet and I don't have much room to work. Specific questions:

1- This is a 3" stack in a 2x4 outside wall. That seems to really be pushing it. I'm hoping to leave the 90 and ream it for a street wye. No room for anything else unless I tear into the wall and connect the stack vertically, and even then I'm not sure I can deal with any more sweep. Doable, or start furring out walls?

2- any thoughts on venting the tub? I can roll a wye and take a 1 ½" vent up the wall near the trap, but I was hoping what I have drawn will pass since it dumps into a 3" stack that is vented separately (but the total developed run is 12 ish feet) so I don't know that I can get away with that.

3- double san tee is on the lavs in the wall. My understanding is that is not best practice, but will pass since it's vertical and identical fixtures are joined?

4- jetted shower system with 6 heads total. With all heads active it's rated at 14.3 GPM theoretical, but our house plumbing won't supply anywhere near that (nor would the water heater). Is a 2" drain in OK for this? (I know it's out of spec for IPC, but I can't find any mention of cumulative shower head flow and drain sizing in 2012 IRC.

About ready to call in a pro, but would love the satisfaction of doing this part myself- any help appreciated!

Any thoughts? TIA-

 

[Terry]

You layout looks much better with the wye off for the toilet.
3" is fine, you can run four bathrooms on the vertical with 3".
The tub within five feet works.
The double lav should be a 2.0" x 1.5" x 1.5" x 1.5" double fixture fitting, not a double santee.
Going to the shower; 45's would be better.