Recent content by LiamM

Thanks John. This will be a curbless shower. One of my reasons for using Hydroban on the pan is that I should have enough left over after waterproofing the walls. The TS membrane (plus the Noble Sealant, corner pieces, etc) would be an additional cost. As you mentioned, the downside is the 3...

I have an upcoming project that will use QuickDrain linear drains, the ones that have an integrated 6"-wide flange of Noble TS. The shower has both a window and a niche. I had planned on using Hydroban on the shower walls and floor, so I wouldn't have to deal with corner buildup from Kerdi...

Thanks folks. I ended up ripping out the liner and installing a new one. Some money out of pocket, but I told the customer I didn't feel confident that the preformed corner would give a reliable seal. This time I didn't make any cuts, and was actually able to get a fairly tight fold, albeit...

Hi all - I was at a job today where I installed a Pasco 40 mil liner, and *tried* to install their preformed corner (where a curb butts into a wall) with their solvent cement. I had watched their video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DA4PiNkatus) and cut the liner like they did at the 7:15...

Hi folks - I'm on a project where the homeowner had a tiled bathroom floor that "crunched". The floor was over a 6" high dirt crawl space. I ended up taking out everything down to the floor joists. The extent of the demolition is in the pic below. During the demo phase, I removed 4 hex-head...

Question regarding shower head...even when it's angled as low as possible, it's still aimed too high. Is there a connector of some type that goes between the shower arm and shower head that would allow me to angle the water spray lower?

hi 1320ms - this is my two cents my first choice would be to rent a toe-kick saw to cut nearly flush with the bottom plate of the exterior wall. second choice would be to carefully use a sawzall with a long blade. my third choice would be to use a regular circular saw to cut within 2"-3" of...

thanks... Another basic question - what's the purpose of the plastic nut where the two pipe sections meet? to hold the new tailpiece in place? I mean, only the plastic pipe is threaded, right? I guess I can't see what the nut does, aside from just screwing onto the plastic pipe.

Thanks again for the responses. I'm about to call it a night, but plan on looking into your suggestions when I pick back up on the project. Thanks

Thanks for the fast response Florida... I don't *think* there's a P-trap...here's a picture of the entire cabinet space, plus the crawl space where the pipe goes. I'm not sure if the second picture has the equivalent of a p-trap, or what. As far as that pipe, it definitely doesn't pull out...

Hello Some basic questions follow - thanks for your patience and advice. I'm trying to replace a basket strainer. I've got the old strainer removed, but I'm now confused how to remove the section of drain pipe so I can slide off the old slip nut. I thought I could simply slide it off the...

hi I'm doing some remodeling work, and my plumber just cut a hole for the toilet flange. right now, I only have 3/4" OSB subfloor, plus 1/2" plywood underlayment. I plan on putting down ditra and tile. the flange won't be installed until the end, right now the pipe is just a long stub-out...

I've used both, but don't really have a preference. With the mesh, you can skip the bedding coat of mud. I normally feather my butt/tapered joints out pretty wide (~14"), so either type of tape blended in well. Remember to use setting-type mud, not the pre-mixed stuff, if you use mesh tape...

alternative to SLC I had a similar situation, trying to flatten an existing floor. I used strips of roofing felt to even out low spots. It doesn't compress, and was easier for me to work with than SLC

Check out BuildingScience.com. They have some good information on properly insulating a basement.