replacing basket strainer

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by LiamM, Sep 1, 2009.

  1. LiamM

    LiamM New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2006
    Hello

    Some basic questions follow - thanks for your patience and advice.

    I'm trying to replace a basket strainer. I've got the old strainer removed, but I'm now confused how to remove the section of drain pipe so I can slide off the old slip nut.

    I thought I could simply slide it off the top, but the pipe has a flared lip on top.

    The attached picture shows the pipe section I'm trying to remove (copper? - I'm not sure what it is). I don't even know how to try removing it - is it threaded in? Do I unscrew it? What do I replace it with?

    As it turns out, I would've had to replace it anyways...as I was unscrewing the hose clamp to the dishwasher drain line on the right, it ripped right off, opening a inch-wide hold in that main pipe section.

    Thanks again
     

    Attached Files:

  2. FloridaOrange

    FloridaOrange Plumbing Designer

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2005
    Occupation:
    Plumbing Designer
    Location:
    SW Florida
    Do you have a trap there?? If not, replace it all and put in a trap. Can you post a whole picture of your cabinet space?

    That pipe is sitting down in the PVC, should pull out unless someone epoxied it in.
     
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  4. LiamM

    LiamM New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2006
    Thanks for the fast response Florida...

    I don't *think* there's a P-trap...here's a picture of the entire cabinet space, plus the crawl space where the pipe goes. I'm not sure if the second picture has the equivalent of a p-trap, or what.

    As far as that pipe, it definitely doesn't pull out. If it is epoxied, what then?
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 1, 2009
  5. FloridaOrange

    FloridaOrange Plumbing Designer

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2005
    Occupation:
    Plumbing Designer
    Location:
    SW Florida
    Ackkkk!! Bottle trap! ;) :D

    The closest (and easiest to make it right) would be to remove the bottle trap and put a P-trap and at the least an AAV (Air admittance valve).

    You'lll either need to put in a new section of PVC or use an adjustable plier and try to break the epoxy.
     
  6. FloridaOrange

    FloridaOrange Plumbing Designer

    Joined:
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    Occupation:
    Plumbing Designer
    Location:
    SW Florida
    [​IMG]
     
  7. LiamM

    LiamM New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2006
    Thanks again for the responses.

    I'm about to call it a night, but plan on looking into your suggestions when I pick back up on the project.

    Thanks
     
  8. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2004
    Occupation:
    Plumber
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    drain

    That pipe is just slid into the larger one. If it was inserted while the glue was still wet it may have adhered to it, but a good twist and pull will remove it. That is a drum trap, not a bottle trap, and while not a good idea, will work. The nut on THAT drain piece was a "captive" one, which means it was installed during the manufacturing process and could NOT be replaced. You would have had to get a new flanged branch tailpiece even if the DW connection had not broke off.
     
  9. FloridaOrange

    FloridaOrange Plumbing Designer

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2005
    Occupation:
    Plumbing Designer
    Location:
    SW Florida
    Thanks for the correction.
     
  10. LiamM

    LiamM New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2006
    thanks...

    another basic question - what's the purpose of the plastic nut where the two pipe sections meet? to hold the new tailpiece in place?

    i mean, only the plastic pipe is threaded, right? i guess i can't see what the nut does, aside from just screwing onto the plastic pipe.
     
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