Yikes... new floor is 2" above the closet flange

Discussion in 'Toilet Forum discussions' started by paperprofit, Jun 17, 2007.

  1. paperprofit

    paperprofit New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2005
    Location:
    Delaware
    You guys have given me such good advice, I'm back for more. Hopefully you haven't been asked this a million times before.

    I raised my existing floor (concrete slab) 2" higher to insulate it, using 2"x4" sleepers and plywood.

    Problem is, the closet flange of my powderoom toilet is now 2" lower than the new floor. What's the best way to fix this?

    The existing flange is black plastic (and is roughly at the level of the concrete pad). The 3" waste pipe is also black plastic (ABS, I guess).

    Spacers? Cut out the old one with a dremel and cutoff wheel? (I'm not sure I have enough clearance to solvent weld a new one in with a 6" throat.) Or is it possible to weld on a new flange to the existing somehow? (I'd rather not choke down the 3" diameter drain to 2".) Something altogether different?

    Any advice will be much appreciated. I have a graduation party for my daughter coming up in a month and the pressure is really on from my little bride! :)
     
  2. Dunbar Plumbing

    Dunbar Plumbing Master Plumber

    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2005
    Occupation:
    Service Plumber, Outdoor Temperature Relief Owner
    Location:
    Northern Kentucky/Greater Cincinnati Area
    The flange issue should of been addressed before the floor was even installed. This will make for a much more difficult task, working within the confines of the inside of the pipe instead of the surrounding outside.

    Spacers of that many is a leak, someday. That flange needs to be brought up to industry standard like they all are when they are installed in new construction........on top the finished floor surface. GOOD LUCK
     
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  4. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

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    Occupation:
    Plumber
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    2"

    Your biggest problem might be finding closet bolts long enough to reach the existing flange and clamp the spacers together while also securing the toilet.
     
  5. leejosepho

    leejosepho DIY scratch-pad engineer

    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2006
    Occupation:
    disabled-retired industrial fabricator
    Location:
    200 miles south of Little Rock
    If you have room to get in there and do so, I would consider trying to cut the existing flange away all the way down to the top edge of the pipe, then slitting the remaining hub in a few places and breaking it away from the pipe in pieces. At that point, maybe a repair coupling and a new flange with a long snout (or some other combination of parts) would get you up to the proper height.
     
  6. paperprofit

    paperprofit New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2005
    Location:
    Delaware
    Rugged, LeeJosepho and HJ,

    (Rugged, I kinda fibbed. I haven't installed the new subfloor yet. I agree with you. I want to fix the flange before the new floor goes down.)

    So, to all three of you, do you agree that I should cut off the existing flange? It seems you must. (I'll do my best to do it exactly the way you said, LeeJosepho.)

    After I cut the flange off, is it necessary to increase the size of the hole in the concrete? It looks like it's only about 3/4" bigger than the waste pipe. I guess that's enough clearance for the cement dauber...

    I drilled holes in the concrete around the perimeter of the flange (in an 8" diameter) in case I have to increase the size of the hole to get the dauber down there.

    Am I doing ok?

    Thanks so much,
    Doug
     
    Last edited: Jun 17, 2007
  7. leejosepho

    leejosepho DIY scratch-pad engineer

    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2006
    Occupation:
    disabled-retired industrial fabricator
    Location:
    200 miles south of Little Rock
    I was wondering how such a significant issue might have been overlooked, but now at least you know what to do, eh?!
     
  8. leejosepho

    leejosepho DIY scratch-pad engineer

    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2006
    Occupation:
    disabled-retired industrial fabricator
    Location:
    200 miles south of Little Rock
    I got to thinking about this later ...

    I would use more than 1/2" plywood. Even on top of insulation between the 2x4s, I cannot imagine that being a solid-feeling floor. Also, whatever you put down should be T&G, such as with 3/4" OSB.
     
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