Wish to do it right the first time - Tub and shower combo remodel

Discussion in 'Shower & Bathtub Forum & Blog' started by Tom M, Feb 8, 2014.

  1. Tom M

    Tom M New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Oklahoma
    Good day to all,

    I am a home handyman with some experience, just enough to realize that research and appropriate questions can pay large dividends. I would like to address this ONLY to the pros on this board.

    I am planning on ripping out a small, dated 3/4 bathroom in a 1980's slab built ranch to the studs, including ceiling and installing a more contemporary one with tub and shower combined in a tiled alcove. The existing room has a 48" wide shower only, requiring me to move a non-load bearing wall about a foot, bust into the slab to move the supply and drain. I intend to have a plumber come in to do the supply pipe, drain and fixure installation, while I do the digging and concrete. The room is 63.5" wide finished wall to wall, so I will likely have to build one side of the alcove out to make the finished opening 60".

    Since the reason for the priority of doing this bath now was a water leak (while we were away for the holidays of course) that wicked into the walls causing mold, I would like to create a bath so that any future leak will no longer present a similar situation. I picture using the Kerdi system with porcelain tile along the entire perimeter of the room, with 1.5" thick stone thresholds AND a floor drain connected to the tub drain line. I would not like water intrude into adjacent carpeted rooms.

    I'm seriously considering the merits of cement board inside the tub/shower alcove only, taking into consideration the difference in thickness between the cement board and drywall while constructing the stud walls to eliminated the need for additional thinset and mesh. In any case, a waterproof membrane seems to make good sense, if covering the entire alcove including ceiling and floor. The remainder of the room seems to only need a foot or so of membrane height along the perimeter, with the exception of under the vanity where there is the possibility of leaks from the supply and drain. The remainder of the concrete slab floor would not have a membrane other than a foot (+/-) all around the perimeter. Green, 1/2" drywall would be used in the remainder of the room.

    Cultured stone vanity top will have integral sink with triple overflows.

    I am considering an American Standard Evolution skirted 60 x 32 deep soaking tub (2425V-RHO). Since I have already replaced the old leaking commode with an American Standard Champ 4, that will be reused. Since the supply and drain lines will be in an interior wall of a closet in the adjacent room, I plan to create an access panel for that plumbing.

    I have pulled and will follow the American standard PDF files on specs and installation.

    I will do mold remediation and preventative treatments on the existing wall structures.

    Is what I am considering a workable concept? Fixing to get old here and do NOT want to ever revisit this issue.

    Thank you for your time and consideration.

    Tom M
    Oklahoma
  2. johnfrwhipple

    johnfrwhipple Bathroom Design & Build - North Vancouver, B.C.

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    post(s) deleted by John Whipple
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  3. johnfrwhipple

    johnfrwhipple Bathroom Design & Build - North Vancouver, B.C.

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  4. Tom M

    Tom M New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Oklahoma
    To my way of thinking, a PRO is somebody that does it right the first time. Seen enough amateurs-for-hire over the years to know paying for a service is not the same as getting it done properly. No offense intended to those here who don't work the issues for hire.

    That said, I understand the need to do things properly. Being a retired submariner, I understand this thoroughly. Water in the people tank was something we paid close attention to.

    Tom M
    Oklahoma
  5. Tom M

    Tom M New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Oklahoma
    Cement board on ALL the walls, not just those in the tub/shower alcove and immediately adjacent? If so, why? Was planning tile 3' up every wall. If the 30 year old slab is seen to have any cracks after the old tile is removed, then Ditra seems appropriate. I plan to stabilize my cracked kitchen floor slab, then use use Ditra... but why apply Ditra on a three decade old stable slab?

    After reading the specs on the Ardex, it seemed that that is an excellent product to use on the entire floor, as well as the ceiling to floor alcove area.

    Tom M
    Oklahoma
  6. Tom M

    Tom M New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Oklahoma
    Alcove to have tile ceiling to floor...
  7. johnfrwhipple

    johnfrwhipple Bathroom Design & Build - North Vancouver, B.C.

    Messages:
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    Location:
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    post(s) deleted by John Whipple
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2014
  8. Tom M

    Tom M New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Oklahoma
    Thank you.

    Would like to see the order of applying which thinsets/membranes/sealing bands/sealing compounds (Ardex) over the concrete boards. Assuming the joints in the concrete board need to be sealed first... is this so? Would like to fully seal the area under the tub installation as well, though no tile there of course.

    Tom M
    Oklahoma
  9. dhagin

    dhagin builder:anti-builder

    Messages:
    108
    Location:
    oahu
    Welcome Tom.

    You do know this is a plumbing site, right? If it's tile you're interested in, check out Johnbridge.com where tile pro's from around the country will offer opinions on how to properly build a bathroom that lasts a lifetime. Most importantly, folks over there are honest, friendly, and respectful of differing opinions and are dedicated tile pros, not internet contractors.

    They can walk you through the many options available, always with an eye on manufacturers and industry recommendations. Don't take my word for it, check it out for yourself. You won't be sorry. :)

    http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=1
  10. johnfrwhipple

    johnfrwhipple Bathroom Design & Build - North Vancouver, B.C.

    Messages:
    4,827
    Location:
    North Vancouver, BC
    post(s) deleted by John Whipple
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2014
  11. dhagin

    dhagin builder:anti-builder

    Messages:
    108
    Location:
    oahu
    I forgot to mention that the advice on the dedicated tile site, Johnbridge.com, just like the advice here on Terry's Plumbing site, is absolutely free. Not just for 30 minutes, or an hour, but as long as you need it. Have fun. :)
  12. Tom M

    Tom M New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Oklahoma
    My apologies for straying past the lines between tile and plumbing... Here is are plumbing specific questions about plumbing issues connected to the project.

    Regarding the American Standard Evolution deep soaker tub and the associated overflow/drain. I have seen multiple comments from purchaser who noted that the pop-up drain plug malfunctioned frequently. Is the pop-up plug a problem to replace should I have a similar experience?

    The Evolution soaker tub seemed a better choice than the AmStd Everclean model tub w the same basic design dimensions because of its apparent heavier duty construction. Is that a correct assessment?

    A floor drain adjacent to the tub/commode seems a good option to remove water in case of (another) leaking fixture. Since this home has 1.5" drain lines installed I assume that any typical drain plate for that size drain pipe ought to have the capacity to drain off anything short of a catastrophic failure of a supply line. My water pressure is well above average since the recent installation of a nearby large city water tower.

    Thank you for your patience. I will refer the other trade questions to their associated forum.

    Tom M
    Oklahoma
  13. Tom M

    Tom M New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Oklahoma
    Just an aside... Here in this part of Oklahoma, the codes being used for building, electric and plumbing are several editions behind those currently published. Much to my surprise.
  14. dhagin

    dhagin builder:anti-builder

    Messages:
    108
    Location:
    oahu
    The drain & overflow for the Evolution tubs is proprietary and the whole thing needs to come from American Standard. The pop-up that we installed on this tub several years ago is a standard touch to close and still works fine. They can be replaced with any standard pop-up.

    evolution.jpg
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