Well Pressure Tank & Pressure Switch questions

[Greggz]

I live in a home that was built in 1995. 3,300 Sq. Ft. with 7/8 acre lot and irrigation. We moved in about ten years ago.

The well pressure tank has developed a leak. I thought it might just be the connection, so I drained the tank. However, the tank was still quite heavy, so it is still holding a pretty good deal of water. I did manage to remove the connection, and re seat it with pipe dope. But no luck, still leaking somewhere at the bottom.

For all I know, this might be the original tank (Amtrol). Based on the dimensions, I think it is a wx-203. I'm guessing the tank needs to be replaced?

And another thing has got me puzzled.

As I spent some time researching the tanks, I noted that I would need to know how my pressure switch is set. Here is the odd thing. The way it is set right now, the pump kicks in at about 42.....then kicks out at about 46. Well, at least that is what the pressure gauge says.

So my question is, does it sound like I should get a new pressure switch as well? And maybe a new gauge while I am at it??

Or is there anything I should be checking or trying first? I'm pretty handy with many things, but I don't have any experience with the pressure tanks.

Thanks for any help or direction anyone can provide.

 

[Reach4]

For all I know, this might be the original tank (Amtrol). Based on the dimensions, I think it is a wx-203. I'm guessing the tank needs to be replaced?

Yes. You can drill some big holes to get the water out. Adding air with a compressor could help drive water out after at least one hole is drilled.

Regarding the pressure switch, it may not be at fault. Its just that things happen so fast, the gauge is not following the action. However pressure switches and pressure gauges are pretty cheap. Might as well replace those too while you are at it. And at least clean the nipple too.

A WX-203 is a 32 gallon tank. If you could increase to a WX-250, that would be better, but not necessary for a 7 gpm pump. If your pump is bigger, you want a bigger tank. http://www.amtrol.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/MC7025-09_17-WXT-Sizing-Card.pdf

Alternatively, you could consider a system with a CSV. Since you are irrigating, that might work better for you. https://cyclestopvalves.com/

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Greggz]

Thank you so much for replying.

If I drill a hole there, is the water going to be shooting out with some force? Or something I can catch in a bucket. It's hard to describe, but it's kind of wedge in, and it isn't going anywhere until there is more water out of it.

The pump is a Red Jacket submersible 1/2hp 10 gmp (model 50SESW1-9SBC), so I take it WX-250 would be better?

And I will look at the CSV system. What would be the advantage?

Thanks again.

 

[Reach4]

If I drill a hole there, is the water going to be shooting out with some force? Or something I can catch in a bucket. It's hard to describe, but it's kind of wedge in, and it isn't going anywhere until there is more water out of it.

Not with the pump off and no water pressure.

Do you have the compressor? If not, you will need for air to come in some way, with a high hole, or remove the valve stem. That will be slower than a compressor.

For cleaning, do you have a wet vacuum?

And I will look at the CSV system. What would be the advantage?

Less pump cycling with a smaller tank. It saves space. You can search for csv* with the search box above. You need the asterisk.

 

[Greggz]

Yes compressor and wet vac. Makes sense now, no pressure in the tank. Suppose I could lop off the top and stick the shop vac down inside.

I take it square D is the switch to get? Seems to be the one I see most places.

And any advice on setting pressure? 30-50? 40-60? Since I am buying a new switch, my thought was 40-60 as the tank comes charged at 38 psi. But like I said, I have no experience with well pressure tanks.

 

[Reach4]

Yes compressor and wet vac. Makes sense now, no pressure in the tank. Suppose I could lop off the top and stick the shop vac down inside.

That sounds pretty intense compared to a 1/2 inch hole or two, but it is going to minimize the lift-out weight. Nobody has posted pictures of anything like that. Cut open WH, yes. Pressure tank: new ground.

I think with some air pressure, the water below the diaphragm came out the regular way. But with your failed diaphragm, there is considerable water above the diaphragm. The diaphragm is going to probably have one small hole.

Pressure switch? They are adjustable. Mine is currently set to 38/58, because I got a nice 60 PSI electronic gauge. It can record peaks, minimums too.

30/50 is fine in my opinion for one story over a basement, but others definitely prefer 40/60. 30 is enough to backwash a softener.

For a submersible with plenty of margin, lets say 40/60 usually. With a jet pump, which is not you, 30/50 is more achievable with some margin.

 

[Valveman]

Besides saving space and not having to be "wedged in" the Cycle Stop Valve has lot of advantages.