Water softener drain line question

[Pushc5]

So the drain for my upcoming fleck 5600sxt softener (1.5cu ft) and carbon filter (1.5 cu ft backwashing) isn't in the most convenient of locations. I could run it across the floor 10 feet but it's kind of in the middle of everything and don't want to risk stepping on it/kicking it.

I was thinking of doing the following. Upgrade from 1/2" I/D poly to a 3/4" I/D poly from the tank to the ceiling (ceilings are 8' so ~3.5-4' of rise). Have a barb to threaded PVC adapter, run 3/4" CPVC along the ceiling 10' then 90 it down to the drain. I'd run a similar setup with the carbon filter for it's drain line. Would that work? I was thinking poly for the run to the ceiling so I have a little adjustment room for the tanks.

Thanks!

 

[Bannerman]

As the drain flow from each control valve is pressurized by the incoming water, it is OK to route the drain line overhead.

Using a larger diameter drain line is often specified in a softener's installation manual when the distance to drain exceeds x feet.

You might consider using a continuous length of black poly pipe for the entire run and thereby eliminate joints, elbows and other fittings if possible.

As you have 2 units, you could combine each into 1 drain line since they should be programmed to regenerate/backwash at different times which do not overlap.

Incorporate an air-gap where the pressurized line discharges to the sewer/septic drain.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

Your plan is good. You could, in fact, wye or tee the drain lines together, perhaps at the ceiling.

You know to stagger the regen times.

You know to have an air gap at the far end, and most places don't require a manufactured air gap device to meet that requirement.

 

[Pushc5]

Thanks, I think I'm going to run 3/4" CPVC and do like you all said and wye them. I had thought about running poly the entire way but I think the CPVC will look cleaner, and there are already unused hangers I could run it on. I'll be sure to stagger the regen times. All set on the air gap.

If I teed\wyed the drain lines would I need to put any one way valves at the tee\wye? I know water should travel path of least resistance, but wasn't sure if there'd be enough pressure to force some of the backwash back into the other unit.

 

[Bannerman]

would I need to put any one way valves at the tee\wye?

Check valves should not be needed as backwards drain flow from each device will not enter the other device as its control valve will keep the drain port closed when regeneration/backwash is not occurring.

 

[Ryan Symons]

Looks like you have a good plan. I would also recommend running the filter drain straight thru the tee and have the softener come in the side. I do this due to the fact that most filters use 2+ times the water and generally regenerate more frequently. Straight thru will give you slightly less friction loss.

 

[Reach4]

If I teed\wyed the drain lines would I need to put any one way valves at the tee\wye? I know water should travel path of least resistance, but wasn't sure if there'd be enough pressure to force some of the backwash back into the other unit.

They both have valves to prevent flow when they are not feeding the drain.

 

[Pushc5]

Awesome, thanks for the help everyone!