Water Softener Drain Issue

[Hockey Nut]

Re-routing water softener discharge line. Increasing to 3/4" line as it travels just over 20 feet. Seeking advice on which option to go with to meet air gap requirement (a starting point with amendments to follow I'm sure )

Laundry on upper floor, I only have this two piece bathroom in basement to utilise.

First time poster, greatly appreciate any advice provided.

I'm in Ontario

Thanks!

- Blue lines would be added to current set up (black lines).

Option #1

Option #2

 

[Reach4]

First would be OK with the bend and not the trap. You want some kind of air gap at the top of the standpipe. Instead of a santee, you could use a wye or combo perhaps. See discussion on https://terrylove.com/forums/index....-for-softeners-and-backwashing-filters.64755/ You don't want two traps in series.

Second lacks an air gap, and pressurizes the sewer.

You could consider using a 1.5 inch branch tailpiece adapting to the sink drain. Then feed the branch input with a dishwasher air gap or other air gap. That lets you use a slip-joint trap.

A 10 inch softener only discharges 2.4 gpm. So flow is not really large.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Hockey Nut]

Perfect, thanks very much for that info/advice.

Moving ahead with option #1, securely fastening the softener discharge to the stand pipe (similar to a washing machine to standpipe connection) would work as it maintains the air gap I would think?

Yes, the dishwasher air gap piece sounds like a great option too.

Will read through link provided.

Thanks!

 

[Reach4]

Moving ahead with option #1, securely fastening the softener discharge to the stand pipe (similar to a washing machine to standpipe connection) would work as it maintains the air gap I would think?

Not officially. A washing machine has an air gap built in, so you are allowed to stick the hose down the standpipe.

If you want to be fully up to standards, you may add an air gap device at the top of the standpipe. https://www.keeneymfg.com/featured_products/50-Air-Gap-for-Standpipes

Maybe I am wrong. Maybe the overflow holes in the sink serves as a way for a sewage backup to get out to the floor before water could rise in the standpipe.

 

[Hockey Nut]

Maybe I didn't explain that very well, so securely fastening the discharge hose with a hose clamp (so it won't come out) then terminating into the stand pipe (updated pic attached) is what I would like to do.

I think as long as the standpipe is above the flood level rim of the lav, there should be no issue with grey/black water backing into it (like you stated)

Thanks for your input.

 

[Bannerman]

I think as long as the standpipe is above the flood level rim of the lav, there should be no issue

It is the open end of the discharge line from the water softener that will need to remain above the flood rim for the sink.

 

[Hockey Nut]

Gotcha ... I think I drew it too long in the picture for illustration purposes. Discharge line above flood level rim... excellent point.

Thanks!