Water Softener and Whole House backwashing Carbon filter

[Skyjumper]

Have been periodically adding Iron out to the brine well and use the rust reducing salt. Same issue. ?

the thing with iron out is you have to let it soak for several hours, or preferably overnight or it won't do anything. then you have to do an extra backwash and then a full regeneration before you can use your water. so you're looking at 5+ hours of downtime minimum. if you do an overnight soak your wife might not be happy that she can't shower the next morning... trust me on that one... I didn't have the patience for all that so I quit using it and still have 6 or 7 bottles of the stuff I got on clearance. I did, however, use it on my Katlox filter, letting it sit for 12+ hours and that did seem to flush a bunch of crud out of it based on the nasty discharge water - so you might try it on your carbon filter since its not in service anyway.

citric acid is what's in Morton rust remover salt, but buying in bulk you can make a stronger mix and it costs less. phosphoric acid is just another mild acid that dissolves rust. there's a couple softener cleaners out there that contain both. I use both with every regeneration and it works really well for me.

EDIT this is a cheper version of Rescare if you have a Menards near you... https://www.menards.com/main/plumbi...tener-cleaner-32-oz/rk06n/p-1444444183882.htm

 

[Reach4]

So not (2) Big Blues right next to each other but maybe a spin down 50 micron with a 2505 DRG prior to the carbon filter?

The backwashing carbon will also serve as maybe a 10 micron filter. My backwashing filter is at the front end, with nothing to even stop pebbles. I would put a cartridge filter that will impede the backwashing of the carbon. Thus I think 50 or 100 or 200 micron would be sufficient. Maybe a wye filter as a rock catcher. You think I exaggerate, but you should see what I washed out of my water heater that came in before the filtering was in place.

On the other hand, I might be better off with no filter in front of my carbon. I don't know if I have gravel under my carbon, and maybe the few rocks that don't get backwashed out will serve as gravel.

I try to shock the well at least once a year. Is there a method to retrofit a 5600sxt to be able to dose in a bleach solution for long term sanitization? The filter I have has 1.5 Cu-ft of the catalytic carbon in it, unsure if that is considered "special" or how the bleach solution would affect this.

Yes, but.... you would need a softener piston, any missing injector stuff, and a solution tank. And, and Bannerman points out, a brine valve.

If you wanted to go to a heavier media, you could to go to a Fleck 2510 timer softening valve. A 560o is probably not a good valve for Katalox or heavier media in a 10 inch tank. It's close. Some think 7 gpm is enough for KL in a 10 inch tank, but I think that is sub-optimum.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Bannerman]

you might try it on your carbon filter since its not in service anyway.

As Iron Out is an acid, not sure what it will do to catalytic carbon at high strength over a long duration.

As an acid will off gas when reacting with iron and some minerals & other metals, when allowing the acid extended contact time with any media, suggest bypassing the unit and manually advancing the controller to BackWash and then remove the electrical plug for the control valve. Removing the electrical plug will prevent the valve from advancing to the following cycles when the BackWash time setting has completed, and leaving the valve in the BW position will ensure the drain port remains open to prevent gases from building too much pressure in the tank.

 

[tddougla]

As Iron Out is an acid, not sure what it will do to catalytic carbon at high strength over a long duration.

As an acid will off gas when reacting with iron and some minerals & metals, when allowing the acid extended contact time with any media, suggest bypassing the unit and manually advancing the controller to BackWash and then remove the electrical plug for the control valve. Removing the electrical plug will prevent the valve from advancing to the following cycles when the BackWash time setting has completed, and leaving the valve in the BW position will ensure the drain port remains open to prevent gases from building too much pressure in the tank.

Wouldn't look to add iron out to the catalytic carbon but was looking at more of a preventative to the carbon filter assembly as to sanitization. Once I pull the head to look for a blockage can I add a bleach solution there to sanitize or will this degrade the carbon or similar. As "Reach4" stated I would need to add a tank and piston to my filter 5600sxt to be able to sample in a bleach solution otherwise.

 

[Skyjumper]

well all of these cleaners are probably not great for filter media, but if your next best option is to replace the media then what do you have to lose? I suppose your time and the cost of the cleaner if it doens't work. they do seem to work on KL, though.

 

[tddougla]

well all of these cleaners are probably not great for filter media, but if your next best option is to replace the media then what do you have to lose? I suppose your time and the cost of the cleaner if it doens't work. they do seem to work on KL, though.

Good to hear, will try it out.

 

[Bannerman]

I would need to add a tank and piston to my filter 5600sxt to be able to sample in a bleach solution otherwise.

A softener valve will also utilize an injector and brine valve which are needed to draw-in an oxidant such as chlorine. Those components are not typically included wuth a filter valve.

Suggest removing the control valve fully to allow inspection and cleaning of the upper basket, riser tube, and the valve internals.