Water meter

[7474]

Have a question regarding my water meter.

For example, middle of the night no water activity throughout the house, triangle on the meter is perfectly still.

Flush the toilet, triangle on the meter begins to spin, toilet fills and toilet valve shuts off, however triangle on the meter continues to spin well after the toilet has filled and the toilet valve has closed.

This scenario is applicable to any water usage in the home. Water meter will be completely still prior to any use and then it continues to run after the faucet has been turned off or the toilet valve has shut off.

Not sure if it’s always done this but I most recently noticed it after we had our hot water tank and expansion tank replaced.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you much.

 

[hj]

IF the pressure in the system is dropping, the water may have to continue running to repressurize the expansion tank,

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

IF the pressure in the system is dropping, the water may have to continue running to repressurize the expansion tank,

Good idea explaining the observed water flow.

If that is the cause, the air precharge on the expansion tank should be raised to the maximum water pressure that comes in from the city. That tank should be empty of water, except after water use has stopped and the hot water needs to be heated more.

 

[7474]

Thank you @hj and @Reach4 for the replies.

Seems like this might be what I need to do.......?

 

[7474]

So, I measured my pressure and the gauge was buried at 100psi, the max on the gauge.

Pressure reducing valve is no longer working.

Kinda think the plumber that installed my new water heater never even checked the water pressure to properly install the expansion tank.

Might be why I am on my 3rd hot water tank in 15 years.

Learning something new everyday.

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

I find most expansion tanks aren't set to pressure.. most people that go to the trouble will also write that with sharpie on the expansion tank or on the little card that is intended for that.

 

[Reach4]

So, I measured my pressure and the gauge was buried at 100psi, the max on the gauge.

Pressure reducing valve is no longer working.

Yep. Your video was fairly good.

Might be why I am on my 3rd hot water tank in 15 years.

I would not think that, but I could be mistaken. I am not a pro. The T+P relief valve should let water out at about 150 psi. You should use the lever to test the T+P relief valve maybe annually. Does the valve open to release water, and does the valve close back up on its own when you release the lever.

Were the two WH failures due to leaks? Your water may be more corrosive than most. City water or private well?

 

[7474]

Thanks @Tuttles Revenge and @Reach4 for the replies.

City water. Pressure was 105psi with the original pressure reducing device.

I had read elsewhere that higher pressure water causes pre-mature failure of the tank. Both replacements were leaks, at least the first was still under warranty.

Interestingly, had a neighbor just move into their new construction home 2 years ago. Went on Christmas vacation only to come back 2 weeks later to a completely flooded house. Humidifier fitting on the second floor HVAC blew out, lodging itself in the drywall! The water was the second floor, down through the kitchen, and into the finished basement. Fortunately, someone was checking on their home and the water only ran for 3 days. They were out of the house for almost a year.


I just replaced my pressure reducing valve today as no amount of adjustment of the bolt would change the pressure.

Have the valve set to 55psi and the expansion tank charged to 50psi. I checked the charge by turning off the cold supply to the tank and opening a hot faucet on the second floor until the water stopped.

Water meter stops running almost immediately when the call for water has ended.

I will add checking the valve and expansion tank to my home maintenance list.

Thanks again for all the assistance.

 

[WorthFlorida]

Thanks @Tuttles Revenge and @Reach4 for the replies........I will add checking the valve and expansion tank to my home maintenance list.........

This might worth installing. I google water pressure alarm...
https://www.waterpressurealert.com/

 

[Mliu]

Have the valve set to 55psi and the expansion tank charged to 50psi.

I would charge the expansion tank to 55psi. The purpose of the expansion tank is to absorb the additional pressure (over normal pressure) of the water due to thermal expansion in the water heater. By setting it 5 psi low, you're diminishing the acceptance volume of the tank (the amount of expanded water the tank can accept to relieve the overpressure).

 

[Mliu]

This is a terrible video. A number of problems:

1. The expansion tank is installed horizontally off the side of the pipe without a support strap to carry its weight.

2. The left guy talks about using a saddle tee to install an expansion tank. [NO!]

3. The right guy claims his bladder had lost all its air but "it was still good." [Excuse me? Either it was installed with no air, or it's leaking. If it's leaking, it needs to be replaced.]

4. The left guy says "it doesn't matter if you have a backflow preventer." [He's 18o degrees wrong here.] He claims you can charge the expansion tank under pressure. [No.] He then goes on to suggest opening a faucet and leaving the hot water running while you charge the expansion tank. [Does he not know how to use that shut-off valve just upstream of the expansion tank? Close the heater supply valve, relieve pressure in the line by opening a hot water faucet, and then charge your tank.]

 

[7474]

I would charge the expansion tank to 55psi. The purpose of the expansion tank is to absorb the additional pressure (over normal pressure) of the water due to thermal expansion in the water heater. By setting it 5 psi low, you're diminishing the acceptance volume of the tank (the amount of expanded water the tank can accept to relieve the overpressure).

Thanks for the reply.

I will take care of this.

Out of curiosity, what would happen if the expansion tank pressure was greater than the supply pressure?

 

[7474]

This is a terrible video. A number of problems:

1. The expansion tank is installed horizontally off the side of the pipe without a support strap to carry its weight.

2. The left guy talks about using a saddle tee to install an expansion tank. [NO!]

3. The right guy claims his bladder had lost all its air but "it was still good." [Excuse me? Either it was installed with no air, or it's leaking. If it's leaking, it needs to be replaced.]

4. The left guy says "it doesn't matter if you have a backflow preventer." [He's 18o degrees wrong here.] He claims you can charge the expansion tank under pressure. [No.] He then goes on to suggest opening a faucet and leaving the hot water running while you charge the expansion tank. [Does he not know how to use that shut-off valve just upstream of the expansion tank? Close the heater supply valve, relieve pressure in the line by opening a hot water faucet, and then charge your tank.]

Thanks for the reply.

1) correct, I have mine supported based on other info I have seen. Interestingly, I have had 3 plumbers (construction and 2 different plumbers with replacements of water heater) and the tank has never been supported

2) correct, I have read/seen numerous times that saddle valves are no good

3) nothing to add here, just seems like common sense that it would need air

4) I did charge my tank by turning off the supply directly over the expansion tank and then opening a 2nd floor hot faucet

 

[Mliu]

Out of curiosity, what would happen if the expansion tank pressure was greater than the supply pressure?

A little higher (~5 psi) would not present a problem. Above that, you risk damaging the bladder because it will try to extrude through the tank inlet.

 

[7474]

A little higher (~5 psi) would not present a problem. Above that, you risk damaging the bladder because it will try to extrude through the tank inlet.

Thanks

 

[WorthFlorida]

......... Humidifier fitting on the second floor HVAC blew out, lodging itself in the drywall! The water was the second floor, down through the kitchen, and into the finished basement. ........

......2) correct, I have read/seen numerous times that saddle valves are no good............

I bet a weeks pay check that a saddle valve was used for the humidifier.

 

[7474]

I bet a weeks pay check that a saddle valve was used for the humidifier.

Not sure, I'll have to ask. The way I understood the story (2nd hand) that it was where the line attached to the humidifier.

6,000 sq ft home, over 1/2 had to be trashed and redone!