Water Heater drain valve failure

Discussion in 'Water Heater Forum, Tanks' started by crosstalk, Jun 26, 2014.

  1. crosstalk

    crosstalk Member

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2011
    Location:
    PA
    My drain valve was clogged so I decided to replace it and the anode rod on my 14 year old WH. Also had a drip from the T&P, so I replaced that. When I tried to remove the drain valve with an adjustable wrench, the wrench went into the body of the valve (the valve wasn't budging). Never had this happen before to me, so it was a bit stressful knowing the valve _had_ to come off at this point. Got a pipe wrench and was able to remove it and install a new ball valve. Below is a photo of the broken valve for those interested.

    Incidentally, the old anode still had a small amount of metal left but it was good to get a new one in there. Might be stupid to mess with a 14 year old unit--we'll see...

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    Thanks for the info. I guess your anode came out without drama.

    Did the new ball valve give you a straight-through path, so that you could insert a wand such as that of a pressure washer?
     
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  4. crosstalk

    crosstalk Member

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2011
    Location:
    PA
    Yes, the new ball valve has a straight path for better flow/cleanout. Before I removed the old drain valve, I was able to get it working to drain the WH, just took forever. After I pulled it out, I didn't see much sediment. But I couldn't get a great view and was anxious to get the new valve in. I used an air impact wrench on the anode and no drama.
     
  5. Gary Swart

    Gary Swart In the Trades

    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2004
    Location:
    Yakima WA
    Some of us install the ball valve when we install the new heater. The OEM valves are really junk. Glad you had some bigger hammers to get your jobs done.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 14, 2015
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