Tub/shower valve installation with 2x3 studs

Discussion in 'Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog' started by old_man, Aug 13, 2013.

  1. old_man

    old_man New Member

    Messages:
    15
    Location:
    maryland
    I am replacing old three handle tub/shower valve with new single handle unit. I am looking at using the Delta R10000 valve body. However my wall studs are 2x3 so I only have 2 1/2 inches of wall cavity depth. Not enough for normal stringer I don't think.

    How is this normally handled?

    Thanks,
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2013
  2. BarryP

    BarryP Reporter

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Hamden, CT
    You actually need to have 2 3/4" from back of rough to FINISHED wall.

    Add backer board and tile thickness to the stud depth and you're well within depth requirement.

    Barry
  3. old_man

    old_man New Member

    Messages:
    15
    Location:
    maryland
    Thanks Barry,

    I know I can make the 2 3/4" if I avoid mounting the back of the valve to a stringer. The valve would be "floating" with its back up against drywall of adjacent room.
    Is it ok to do this and rely on straps on copper tubing for physical support?
  4. old_man

    old_man New Member

    Messages:
    15
    Location:
    maryland
    I will have about 1/2" between drywall and back of valve.
    These are the choices that I can think of:

    1 - Don't bother with stringer behind valve, let it be supported by copper tubing.
    2 - Make a sheet metal stringer.
    3 - Remove bracket assembly from back of valve (2 screws), flatten it out, put it back on. This buys me 1/4". Now with 3/4" I can get a 1x6 behind it.

    Can anyone help me choose door #1, 2, or 3? Or is there a 4th door?
  5. BarryP

    BarryP Reporter

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Hamden, CT
    4. Install blocking under the valve with holes drilled so supply lines can run through it. Valve will basically sit on blocking. Strap valve to blocking. Strapping is sold in 10' lengths, coiled ($4). Strapping has holes in it for screwing down.

    It is easier to fit the valve to the blocking prior to installing blocking. You can also sweat the fittings to the pipe before you screw them to the valve.

    Barry
  6. old_man

    old_man New Member

    Messages:
    15
    Location:
    maryland
    Barry,
    Thanks for the input.

    After sleeping on it here is what I think I am going to do. Home Depot has an oak "hobby board" that is exactly 1/2" thick. I'll use this behind valve and mount it to studs with corner shelving brackets. Since this is a hardwood, 1/2" wood screws should provide decent grip.

    Does this sound reasonable?
  7. BarryP

    BarryP Reporter

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Hamden, CT
    More expensive and a harder wood to screw into. You'll need brackets which you'll be screwing at a tight angle too, but if it works for you, great! You're doing the work.

    Remember - You're framing, not building a cabinet.

    Barry
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