Tub Drain Stopper Replacement

Discussion in 'Shower & Bathtub Forum & Blog' started by Don Zorn, Jan 16, 2005.

  1. Don Zorn

    Don Zorn New Member

    Messages:
    33
    Location:
    Alberta
    Hello,

    I would like to replace my existing bathtub drain stopper with a new one because it is difficult to rotate the knob which raises and lowers the stopper (impossible if your hand are wet). Have taken it apart in the past and lubed it up, but the problem returns after a few months. Photos of existing setup are attached below. I think it is a poor design. It was installed in 1987 when the house was new.

    A few questions:

    1) I do not have access from the floor below due to a finished ceiling - but I do have an access from the wall at the facet end (interior wall). Based on the photos, is this an easy job or a difficult job? Any tricks or tips that you care to share?

    2) Is there a manufacturer or namebrand that I should ask for - ie. one that is reliable and will not get stiff over time like this one did? Local plumbing store recommends Gerberit (spelling?).

    3) Is there a special tool which makes the the drain piece in the bottom of the tub easier to unscrew - see photo attached.

    Thanks in advance for your advice/recommendations? :)

    Attached Files:

  2. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,874
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    drain

    With that tub you can use a Geberit cable operated one which is similar to what you have but is plastic. You could use a standard lever operated drain. Or you can install a push/pull drain which does not have any mechanical mechanism to corrode or seize up. There is a tool, called a "smart dumbbell" which may remove the bottom drain fitting, but since both pieces of the drain are brass it may be corroded to the point where it will require that it be "cut out".
  3. Don Zorn

    Don Zorn New Member

    Messages:
    33
    Location:
    Alberta
    [​IMG]


    Bought a "dumbell" and was able to turn out the threaded drain piece - no problem. Also bought an OS&B (Model 314Q-CP) bath Waste and Overflow with a chrome "clicker". Opened the box at home, looked at my plumbing and figured out pretty quickly that it won't fit in my situation.

    Please take a look at the first two photos that I posted above. Anyone know what Manufacturer this might be based on these photos?

    To make the replacement easy, I need a bath Waste and Overflow which has a large brass "T" connected directly below the tub drain. The waste water flows vertically straight through the "T" and into the trap below imediately below. The horizontal leg of the "T" is connected by a flex to the overflow.

    My problem is that there is 2x4 framing at the front of the tub at floor level - no room to connect the drain there - which seems to be the standard configuration.

    Took a look at the Geberit bath waste and overflow and it won't fit either.


    Words of wisdom from the more experienced? :)

    Thanks,

    Don
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 15, 2008
  4. Don Zorn

    Don Zorn New Member

    Messages:
    33
    Location:
    Alberta
    Oh, by the way - on the second photo, the drain for the tub is immediately above the large brass "T". The threaded piece inside of the tub screws directly into this brass "T" from above. :)

    Don
  5. Clayton

    Clayton Plumber

    Messages:
    124
    Clayton

    Don,

    What you are asking for is called a "Direct Drain" bath waste & overflow assembly. I noticed you bought the clicker / toe touch for a replacement, which happens to be about the only kind of direct drain waste assemblies I normally see in the supply houses besides the lift and turn stile.

    I believe your current waste & overflow is also OS&B as they are the only brand I've ever seen manufacturing a cable operated direct drain waste although I've personally never seen thier model in brass, only plastic.

    OS&B makes the direct drain waste & overflow assembly in almost every style available, but I can imagine most would be special order.

    good luck.


    EDIT:what happen to spell check / i better go back to english class.
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2005
  6. Don Zorn

    Don Zorn New Member

    Messages:
    33
    Location:
    Alberta
    Clayton - Thanks for your post.

    Yes - that is exactly what I have - a direct drain waste. Downloaded the OS&B catalogue off the internet and low and behold - they do have both cable driven and toe clicker models in the direct drain configuration.

    I actually managed to get a hold of the plumber that did my house in 1987! He told me that the waste overflow that I have was made by some company that went out of business - they were one of the first to come out with the cable driven waste/overflows. And they were problematic with seizing up too.

    He says the cable driven units have come a long way since the early units and highly recommended that I convert over to a Geberit - well built and reliable - that is all that he installs now. So I am thinking about cutting out some more of the drywall and some of the floor so that I can get enough access to install a Geberit. Will build an access hatch for the future. Note that my next project is to tile the bathroom floor anyways, so I might as well bite the bullet now and convert to a unit that is known to be reliable.

    Thanks for your help! :)

    Don
  7. Clayton

    Clayton Plumber

    Messages:
    124
    Clayton

    Great choice Don. I have used the brass and plastic geberit drains and only use the plastic ones now for several years. They are a great product and very reliable and easy to install.

    Good luck with your project.
  8. Don Zorn

    Don Zorn New Member

    Messages:
    33
    Location:
    Alberta
    Hi Clayton -- Turns out there is a floor joist right where the drain would need to go on the Geberit tub waste overflow - probably why a direct drive waste was used when the house was built.

    So I ended up installing an OS&B 314DC-20BCP brass cable driven direct drive unit. To install the new strainer, however, I didn't need the dumbell wrench - instead OS&B uses a small 1/2" waste bolt to screw the strainer down to the waste elbow. The waste bolt is slotted. My largest slot screwdriver did not have a tip that was wide enough to catch on both sides of the slot in the waste bolt, so I ground a rigid scraper on both sides to essentially make a wide slot screwdriver about 3/4" wide. It worked OK, but now I am curious - do you plumbers have a special tool for this? If so, what do you call it? Might be a good excuse to go out and buy another tool!

    Oh by the way, L learned that the original waste overflow was manufactured by a company called Adjarro (spelling might not be exact) and it was installed in 1987. Apparently they are one of the first companies to come out with cable driven waste overflows and are no longer in business. Curious if any plumbers have heard of them?

    Don
  9. Clayton

    Clayton Plumber

    Messages:
    124
    Clayton

    Never heard of any company named Adjarro.

    Glad you was able to get the drain changed. The Geberit drains use the same style of slotted bolt to assemble also. Recently their slotted bolts have had hex heads so i just use my socket on them, but earlier ones was round with only the slot. I just drop a quarter (nickle during rough times) into the slot and turn it with my lineman pliers. Just a side note - plastic kitchen sink strainers such as Opella, JB, Brasstech use the same style bolt to assemble.
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