abestophat
New Member
I will apologize for the long post but think a little history may be worthwhile on how I got to this point.
I moved into a home last year that has a (2) Clack WS1 heads with 10x54 tanks, brine tank, 300 gallon water tank with Matala HK-25LP aerator for diffuser inside tank. The home was sold with this supposed $10k system ready to go. It wasn't until I was too far into the home purchase (and selling my other home as well) that I realized the water purification system wasn't online and there was no media in the filter tanks whatsoever. We had the water tested 2x and it was pristine so we didn't see a need to spend the money to pay the company that installed the system to re-bed the filters and left the system in bypass for the better part of a year. When the shelter-in-place orders came down the pipe, we actually thought about selling the system as we were in the middle of building a pool and could have used some extra cash. We called the company that had their stickers on the Clack WS1 filter heads and they came out and ran the system to see what it would take to get it back up. They quoted $650 to re-bed one filter (said I didn't need the other filter because our water was already soft) and $1400 to replace the Grundfos MQ3-45 booster pump that was short-cycling as well as install a new diffuser system (apparently 3 heads instead of the current 1 in the 300gal tank) and a larger aerator. The diffusers and aerator change was their method to guarantee sulfur smell H2S removal. Their quote complete was quite shocking. The technician did offer some good advice and said I shouldn't sell the system because the water could change and that I'd never get out of it near what it was worth.
Low and behold a few months ago our water started smelling horrible. I poured 3 gallons of germicidal bleach down into the well in an attempt to kill the bacteria that produces the H2S smell. It may work for a while albeit our water now has trace of bleach smell. My wife thinks it is better than the alternative and I agree. Since I had this 10k piece of furniture out in the garage, I decided that I can try and get it up-and-running. After dismantling and cleaning the MQ3-45 and also removing the diaphragm under the board to repeatedly adjust pressures, I came to the conclusion that the pump is bad and ordered a replacement. It goes off and kicks back on when there is still clearly a need for water. I was able to easily screw the filter heads off and discovered, as the tech indicated, that they were both empty of media/resin and full of water. I ordered 1CF bag of Purolite C100E resin for one tank and 1.5CF bag of Katalox Light KL-10 Filter Media for the second tank and I'm awaiting their delivery.
I would appreciate some input/clarification on a few items:
1. Do I need to make any programming changes to the filter head for the two different types of media?
2. Do I hook both filter tanks up to the brine tank by means of a tee/wye? I'm fearful if I do this, they will both put too much water into the brine tank. How do I program the filter heads for this scenario if it is possible?
3. Will the Katalox light KL-10 work well for this type system? I intend to install very small crushed rock in the tank only up to the diffuser/filter that sticks into the top of the filter tank just past the tank bottom invert.
4. Shall I plan to install .5CF of fine rock below the 1CF Purolite as the 10x54 tank is for 1.5cf media? Or will just a little bit of rock up past the invert to cover the diffuser/filter be sufficient?
5. Does it matter which filter media/resin is first in the line? Water comes from my well pressure tank to the system, through the 2 filter heads, into the 300gal tank and then to the booster pump that pumps through the house.
6. I have noticed that when I close/open the system bypass valve (my entire system has a bypass valve) my hot water heater tanks gurgle and the well pressure tank oddly clicks. Any idea what this is and is it detrimental to any components (water heaters, purification system, etc.)?
7. Is there anything I should watch out for when I start the filter heads up? I have seen online videos on the slow opening of the filter tank head outlet valve but not sure if there will be any other surprises.
Much Thanks!
I moved into a home last year that has a (2) Clack WS1 heads with 10x54 tanks, brine tank, 300 gallon water tank with Matala HK-25LP aerator for diffuser inside tank. The home was sold with this supposed $10k system ready to go. It wasn't until I was too far into the home purchase (and selling my other home as well) that I realized the water purification system wasn't online and there was no media in the filter tanks whatsoever. We had the water tested 2x and it was pristine so we didn't see a need to spend the money to pay the company that installed the system to re-bed the filters and left the system in bypass for the better part of a year. When the shelter-in-place orders came down the pipe, we actually thought about selling the system as we were in the middle of building a pool and could have used some extra cash. We called the company that had their stickers on the Clack WS1 filter heads and they came out and ran the system to see what it would take to get it back up. They quoted $650 to re-bed one filter (said I didn't need the other filter because our water was already soft) and $1400 to replace the Grundfos MQ3-45 booster pump that was short-cycling as well as install a new diffuser system (apparently 3 heads instead of the current 1 in the 300gal tank) and a larger aerator. The diffusers and aerator change was their method to guarantee sulfur smell H2S removal. Their quote complete was quite shocking. The technician did offer some good advice and said I shouldn't sell the system because the water could change and that I'd never get out of it near what it was worth.
Low and behold a few months ago our water started smelling horrible. I poured 3 gallons of germicidal bleach down into the well in an attempt to kill the bacteria that produces the H2S smell. It may work for a while albeit our water now has trace of bleach smell. My wife thinks it is better than the alternative and I agree. Since I had this 10k piece of furniture out in the garage, I decided that I can try and get it up-and-running. After dismantling and cleaning the MQ3-45 and also removing the diaphragm under the board to repeatedly adjust pressures, I came to the conclusion that the pump is bad and ordered a replacement. It goes off and kicks back on when there is still clearly a need for water. I was able to easily screw the filter heads off and discovered, as the tech indicated, that they were both empty of media/resin and full of water. I ordered 1CF bag of Purolite C100E resin for one tank and 1.5CF bag of Katalox Light KL-10 Filter Media for the second tank and I'm awaiting their delivery.
I would appreciate some input/clarification on a few items:
1. Do I need to make any programming changes to the filter head for the two different types of media?
2. Do I hook both filter tanks up to the brine tank by means of a tee/wye? I'm fearful if I do this, they will both put too much water into the brine tank. How do I program the filter heads for this scenario if it is possible?
3. Will the Katalox light KL-10 work well for this type system? I intend to install very small crushed rock in the tank only up to the diffuser/filter that sticks into the top of the filter tank just past the tank bottom invert.
4. Shall I plan to install .5CF of fine rock below the 1CF Purolite as the 10x54 tank is for 1.5cf media? Or will just a little bit of rock up past the invert to cover the diffuser/filter be sufficient?
5. Does it matter which filter media/resin is first in the line? Water comes from my well pressure tank to the system, through the 2 filter heads, into the 300gal tank and then to the booster pump that pumps through the house.
6. I have noticed that when I close/open the system bypass valve (my entire system has a bypass valve) my hot water heater tanks gurgle and the well pressure tank oddly clicks. Any idea what this is and is it detrimental to any components (water heaters, purification system, etc.)?
7. Is there anything I should watch out for when I start the filter heads up? I have seen online videos on the slow opening of the filter tank head outlet valve but not sure if there will be any other surprises.
Much Thanks!