Toto install on heated floor

Discussion in 'Toilet Forum discussions' started by alternety, Nov 3, 2006.

  1. alternety

    alternety Like an engineer

    Messages:
    671
    Location:
    Washington
    I am installing a number of Totos and I have radiant tubes in the floor. Half have no documentation and the rest are too close to chance drillling.

    How much stability is provided by the two floor bolts in the plastic part that sits on the floor and flange? The floors are concrete and not quite flat. The toilets wobble. Will some sort of shimming be a satisfactory solution. I will also caulk but I I suspect the caulk will not adhere to the concrete sealer.

    I could possibly rough up the concrete and try epoxy of some sort where the two bolts go. I doen not seem like a real good idea.
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2006
  2. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,262
    Location:
    New England
    I'd be leary about installing the toilet without using the screws at the back (I'm assuming you are talking about a unifit adapter?). You could maybe rent an IR camera, and find where the tubes run...assuming the heat was on, they'd jump right out in the picture.

    I know when I installed mine...I opted to not run the heating tubes behind the toilet so I'd have no chance of hitting one when installing the Unifit adapters.

    If you still have a film camera, you may have to look hard, but you can buy IR film. You'll need a dense red filter on the front, too. It isn't immediate (since you have to get the film developed!), but this should work as well.

    A really good bead of silicon, though might just hold it in place well. Hassle is, if it doesn't, then you might break the unifit, since it would torque around the flange connections - you've got a decent lever there.
  3. asuwish

    asuwish New Member

    Messages:
    23
    Location:
    From Canada
    alternety,
    I don't have a solution to your problem but I think I might have some similar issues regarding caulking adhering to concrete sealer. Didn't think of it before now...I'm thinking of putting in a polished concrete floor with radiant heat - it hasn't been installed yet. Are you doing polished concrete too or is something going on top of the concrete? I'm putting in a toto aquia.
  4. alternety

    alternety Like an engineer

    Messages:
    671
    Location:
    Washington
    The concrete was just hand trowled and cut with a saw on 3' squares for appearance. I grouted the cuts. I wound up having to grind the whole serface with diamonds because the contractor failed to properly clean the surface after cutting. I had cement sneaker prints all over the surface. Also broom marks and wheel drags from carelessnes with very fresh concrete. Not even an oops, sorry, let alone repair.

    Then acid stained, neutralized, and sealed. Watch out during staining. Dribbles from the sprayer show. Use a circular pattern. The spraying pattern can also show.
  5. asuwish

    asuwish New Member

    Messages:
    23
    Location:
    From Canada
    Thanks for that tidbit. I may have to rethink the polished concrete. The contractors I have working for me are not that careful either, but the general contractor is a perfectionist so I know he would fix any "mistakes". How long did it take you to do the job - the staining, neutralizing and sealing?
  6. alternety

    alternety Like an engineer

    Messages:
    671
    Location:
    Washington
    Basicly figure out how long it would take to mop the area you have. It would be a reasonable estimate to multiply that by the sum of stain, neutralize, and 2X the number of seal coats. My sealer said wipe off the excess after coating and before drying.
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