No plants in the vicinity. 4-5' deep is a guess... that's about the only thing I didn't measure while building this house. I'm confident we're sufficiently above the water table since the borrow pit was ~10-ft deep during the wet season and we didn't hit water in there. I'll have the septic guy check the filter and report back. Thank you for your wisdom!
Toilet won't flush.. Not clogged.
- Thread starter Randy Strye
- Start date
Users who are viewing this thread
No plants in the vicinity. 4-5' deep is a guess... that's about the only thing I didn't measure while building this house. I'm confident we're sufficiently above the water table since the borrow pit was ~10-ft deep during the wet season and we didn't hit water in there. I'll have the septic guy check the filter and report back. Thank you for your wisdom!
Queen50
Member
When I used to wash clothes with cold water and a power detergent, we had a crust of detergent build up at the outlet where the pipe ran into the tank. It would allow stuff to pass slowly through.
Sponsor
Paid Advertisement
Septic guy says there is a lot of TP in the tank and the effluent filter is likely clogged and requires pumping out the tank. Is $225 reasonable for a pump out? He also said that the kitchen sink disposal is a potential problem. In thinking about the chemicals we put into our septic, we realized that the blue tabs that we put in the toilet tank might be our biggest problem. Otherwise, the only chemicals that go down the drain are the laundry detergent. We may switch from pods to something we can portion out better depending on load size.
WJcandee
Wise One
How reasonable it is depends upon the area. On Long Island, NY, it would be a gift, in large part because of the high local charges to the pumping company when they deliver the stuff to a plant to be processed. But if he's going to pump it dry, and he will do it expeditiously, I don't see that it's that bad, particularly if it includes thoroughly-cleaning the effluent filter. The stuff in that tank looks harmless although smelly, but touch it and then scratch your nose or rub your eye, and there's a fair chance you will be in the hospital for a few weeks, so having someone else clean the filter is worth it for that reason alone.
Forget about the rest of the stuff, including the stuff about the disposer. Lots of folklore about disposers, toilet tabs, laundry detergent, blah, blah, and in 50 years of having a septic tank, it has never ever been an issue. The fact is that the septic tank itself does a very good job of digesting the stuff coming in, and producing the muck that needs to be pumped out. And the tiniest bit of poo is all that it takes to get the reaction rolling properly. Most septic system problems aren't the result of the stuff not being digested in the normal course of things. Very often it's various kinds of stuff making it to the leeching fields that then mess them up. For example, some people try to put in additives that will reduce their need to pump the septic tank by causing more "stuff" to be suspended in the effluent instead of dropping to the bottom of the tank. If in fact the additives actually do that, it's a first-class way to screw up your field. Your field should get water that is as clear as absolutely-possible, which comes from the digestion and sedimentation processes taking place, particularly the latter, thus producing a center layer of relatively-clear liquid in the tank. By code, most septic tanks are overdesigned for the job of sedimentation and can accept more volume than 1-2 occupants per bedroom will provide, especially if you are using 1.6gpf toilets or below, and have a modern dishwasher and washer. The point is that a well-functioning system will take what is thrown at it, within reason. And the septic guys make big money selling additives, which the EPA says unequivocally that you don't need. One idiot wanted to put sulfuric acid in my properly-functioning septic tank, and charge $300 to do so. Septic tank, not cesspool, septic tank. Ummmmm...no thanks, guy. THAT would not be helpful.
All that happened to you was that the system functioned properly and your effluent filter worked properly and now needs to be cleaned. (And, BTW, a lot of toilet paper isn't of itself a problem. It will eventually digest.) Perhaps if your home hadn't been used in a while, some of the TP floated over to the other chamber when the tank started to refill, rather than being displaced by the baffle. It should stay where it is now that the tank is full again. (Just a surmise.) OR, the tank hadn't been pumped recently enough such that the scum layer (the stuff floating on the top) penetrated below the baffle. The general rule is that you want to pump when the sludge layer (layer of digested stuff at the bottom of the tank) and scum layer together take up more than a third of the volume of the tank. For most folks, with a properly-designed system, a pump every three years is more than enough.
Our jurisdiction actually pays for a free pump once a year, since we pay sewer tax but are one of about 100 homes that don't have a municipal sewer to be connected to; our area was left off for some reason when they put in the sewer system decades ago. Once a year is waaaaaay more often than we need, but we do it because it can only help prolong the life of our system.
Good luck!
Forget about the rest of the stuff, including the stuff about the disposer. Lots of folklore about disposers, toilet tabs, laundry detergent, blah, blah, and in 50 years of having a septic tank, it has never ever been an issue. The fact is that the septic tank itself does a very good job of digesting the stuff coming in, and producing the muck that needs to be pumped out. And the tiniest bit of poo is all that it takes to get the reaction rolling properly. Most septic system problems aren't the result of the stuff not being digested in the normal course of things. Very often it's various kinds of stuff making it to the leeching fields that then mess them up. For example, some people try to put in additives that will reduce their need to pump the septic tank by causing more "stuff" to be suspended in the effluent instead of dropping to the bottom of the tank. If in fact the additives actually do that, it's a first-class way to screw up your field. Your field should get water that is as clear as absolutely-possible, which comes from the digestion and sedimentation processes taking place, particularly the latter, thus producing a center layer of relatively-clear liquid in the tank. By code, most septic tanks are overdesigned for the job of sedimentation and can accept more volume than 1-2 occupants per bedroom will provide, especially if you are using 1.6gpf toilets or below, and have a modern dishwasher and washer. The point is that a well-functioning system will take what is thrown at it, within reason. And the septic guys make big money selling additives, which the EPA says unequivocally that you don't need. One idiot wanted to put sulfuric acid in my properly-functioning septic tank, and charge $300 to do so. Septic tank, not cesspool, septic tank. Ummmmm...no thanks, guy. THAT would not be helpful.
All that happened to you was that the system functioned properly and your effluent filter worked properly and now needs to be cleaned. (And, BTW, a lot of toilet paper isn't of itself a problem. It will eventually digest.) Perhaps if your home hadn't been used in a while, some of the TP floated over to the other chamber when the tank started to refill, rather than being displaced by the baffle. It should stay where it is now that the tank is full again. (Just a surmise.) OR, the tank hadn't been pumped recently enough such that the scum layer (the stuff floating on the top) penetrated below the baffle. The general rule is that you want to pump when the sludge layer (layer of digested stuff at the bottom of the tank) and scum layer together take up more than a third of the volume of the tank. For most folks, with a properly-designed system, a pump every three years is more than enough.
Our jurisdiction actually pays for a free pump once a year, since we pay sewer tax but are one of about 100 homes that don't have a municipal sewer to be connected to; our area was left off for some reason when they put in the sewer system decades ago. Once a year is waaaaaay more often than we need, but we do it because it can only help prolong the life of our system.
Good luck!
$225 sounds in the range. If the tank is 1500 it may cost more than one that is for an old 750 or 1000 gallon tank. Do you know how big your system is? How much did he pump? How many cleanouts are there?
Don't wait trying to save $25. Get it done while you are there if possible. Ask a few questions to educate yourself about your system. Look at his big truck, his long hose, etc. Ask yourself what rate would make you want to take up that business. I am concerned if he is trying to generate garbage disposal business sight unseen. That does not seem like the small septic specialist that I would prefer. I have only had my tank pumped once, and he did not come in the house. He did want max water run from inside the house after the initial pumping. He observed flow. I think he sucked some more when the water came but I am not sure. I remember thinking it was great value for money where initially I may have dickered a tad over the phone. I had copied the number from the side of the truck when I saw another house getting pumped. His dad started the business in the 50s.
If the port(s) is/are buried, measure the location of the lids (s) to fixed points like the corners of the house or the side of the house to make the location easy next time. Staple the notes to a garage wall so it does not get lost.
A bidet attachment can save a lot of TP and do a better job in the process. Some people think you should not even have a garbage disposal with a septic system. If you have a disposal, you should still put the bulk of solid things into the trash container. You should throw away grease and coffee grounds rather than putting them down the drain.
Oh, wait. You have not had it pumped yet, and the guy was speculating over the phone?
Don't wait trying to save $25. Get it done while you are there if possible. Ask a few questions to educate yourself about your system. Look at his big truck, his long hose, etc. Ask yourself what rate would make you want to take up that business. I am concerned if he is trying to generate garbage disposal business sight unseen. That does not seem like the small septic specialist that I would prefer. I have only had my tank pumped once, and he did not come in the house. He did want max water run from inside the house after the initial pumping. He observed flow. I think he sucked some more when the water came but I am not sure. I remember thinking it was great value for money where initially I may have dickered a tad over the phone. I had copied the number from the side of the truck when I saw another house getting pumped. His dad started the business in the 50s.
If the port(s) is/are buried, measure the location of the lids (s) to fixed points like the corners of the house or the side of the house to make the location easy next time. Staple the notes to a garage wall so it does not get lost.
A bidet attachment can save a lot of TP and do a better job in the process. Some people think you should not even have a garbage disposal with a septic system. If you have a disposal, you should still put the bulk of solid things into the trash container. You should throw away grease and coffee grounds rather than putting them down the drain.
Last edited:
Jadnashua
Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Most stuff will decompose in the septic tank, but not things like egg shells, bones, and a few other things that are not soluble in the first place...they just add to the sludge that must be pumped out. So, it depends on what you put down the disposer whether it's a problem with the septic system or not. Some of the TP that contains some long plant fibers can take a really long time to decompose there.
Smooky
In the Trades
$225 is reasonable for pumping it out and cleaning the filter. Sometimes pumpers only pump out the liquid and if he does that he is ripping you off. He needs to remove all of the solids in the tank, the sludge on the bottom and grease and oils at the top. The tank should be pumped at least every five years and more often if you have a food waste disposal. I hope that solves your problem but even if it does not, it is still worth doing.
WJcandee
Wise One
Yep. You want it pumped dry.
And because some pumpers are charged by the gallon when they go to dump, some try to pump out only the stuff on the top and on the bottom. Notorious problem with restaurant grease traps when the locality insists it be pumped dry. Instead of just getting the grease off the top, the pumper must empty the trap, inflating his bill and (previously) mine. With a septic, pumping it dry is the standard.
And believe it or not, decomposed poo smells a lot better than decomposed grease. A lot better. The grease would make you vomit.
I can vouch for that... I design/inspect roofs and I can't stand working around the exhaust vents above a Chinese restaurant... they almost never clean the grease trap up there. That's in my top 3 worst smells ever right next to rotting carcass/sugar mill and gut contents. Yes, sugar mills smell exactly the same as rotting carcass.
So the tank was pumped dry and the filter wasn't all that clogged... just enough to slow things down. On a side note, unless things put down the sink disposal will float, there's no way they are going to affect the filter. I was under the mistaken impression the filter was at the bottom... it's actually near the top and several feet off the bottom so I doubt that's an issue. It will certainly clog up with microbial scum given the very small openings so I'd be tempted to pull it out and clean it every year rather than pump the whole tank. Any professional advice on that?
Jadnashua
Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
If you don't exceed the flow rate into the tank (dilute things too much), and don't use too many chemicals that can curtail the bacterial decomposition of the organic components, you should only need to worry about the non-organic or insoluble components going into the tank. IOW, the bacteria in there should eat the organic stuff into a fine enough size to either fall to the bottom of the tank, or go out into the leach field (which should only really see liquids, not solids, which is what the filter is for). The use of lots of bleach, or some other caustic chemicals in the house can disrupt the bacteria content of the tank, and mess with the overall efficiency. Lots of loads of laundry with bleach, or lots of really long showers can dilute things and overwhelm the system. Some people find that flushing some bacteria products made for a septic tank periodically can help to jumpstart or enhance the operation of the tank...depends on what you regularly put down the drain.
If the volume in is too great, solids don't get a chance to sink below the outlet, nor do the bacteria get enough time to do their thing.
If the volume in is too great, solids don't get a chance to sink below the outlet, nor do the bacteria get enough time to do their thing.
Did the septic cleaner say how full things were? You don't want to wait until the thing is full. I hope the system is draining well now.
Fats float, such as you would get if you put steak and roast trimmings down the disposal.
Smooky
In the Trades
The septic tank stays full of water after two to three days. After that, a teaspoon of water in is a teaspoon of water out. The tank is designed as a settling chamber and grease and oils float to the top. There is usually a baffle wall to hold back floaters. Older tanks had an outlet tee and newer systems have an outlet filter. The inlet for the filter is about the center of the tank to prevent floaters and sinkers from going out into the drainfield. I think it is a good idea to clean the filter. Bio film will build up on the plates and suspended solids get caught in the filter. Cleaning it out should help prevent slow draining and extend the life of the drainfield.
I don’t have a food waste disposer. We put everything in a little 1 gallon pail and dump it in the woods. It is a good reason to have a compost pile.
When the tank was pumped out, if ground water had been problem, water would have been entering the tank from the outlet end.
There are larger effluent filters and here is link to Zabel Filters:
http://zabelstore.stores.yahoo.net/gravity-effluent-filters.html
I don’t have a food waste disposer. We put everything in a little 1 gallon pail and dump it in the woods. It is a good reason to have a compost pile.
When the tank was pumped out, if ground water had been problem, water would have been entering the tank from the outlet end.
There are larger effluent filters and here is link to Zabel Filters:
http://zabelstore.stores.yahoo.net/gravity-effluent-filters.html
42 Junipers
New Member
I was having the bubble toilet too when using the shower. Toilet at lowest point would not flush. Pumping the septic cured that issue. Before I had the septic pumped I installed a new toilet and it flushed fine for 2 weeks. I assumed that when the septic level came back up and toilet once again was not working I feared a failure of an outlet pipe going to the drain field? I also thought perhaps the affluent level was partially blocking my toilet outlet pipe? The one thing that was ultra simple that I read in this forum was to take off the lid and hold the handle down until all of the water could exit the toilet tank. IT FLUSHED FINE !!!! Sometimes the chain is too long or the nut on the handle becomes loose. In my case it was a bit of both. New toilets often have loose handles due to shipping or poor assembly. I tightened the handle nut where it connects to the porcelain with the bar in the lowest position but still hold the handle down until fit flushes. Need to take some links out of the chain or use a bit of wire to make it shorter. No wonder it was on sale ! Anyway, after 6 months of stressing over this toilet problem...turned out to be a simple free diy fix instead of thinking I needed to dig up my yard !!! Thanks SOOOO much to whomever mentioned the toilet handle hold down trick
