Toilet Shut Off Valve - replace washer?

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tlovedeck

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Is it possible to replace a rubber washer on a toilet shut-off valve shown below?

After shutting off this valve to install a new fill valve inside the toilet, then turning this shut-off valve back on, the drip was significant: about 1 cup water every 24 hours. After tightening the highlighted nut the valve now has a very slow leak (1/2 tsp over 24 hours).

This shut-off valve was installed in 1998 (west coast Canada).

Is it possible to replace a rubber washer on these valves? The size of that red circled nut is 7/8".

toilet-shut-off-valve-leak.jpg
 

Eman85

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I am not a plumber. I'd rather change the valve to a 1/4 turn valve. The washer in the valve should be replaceable but there should be something sealing the plastic stem also.
 

WorthFlorida

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The best way to repair is replace the entire valve as Eman85 suggest. The current valve is a PEX crimp connection. With the proper tool, cut the PEX pipe as clause as possible to the valve. It's important that the cut is clean and straight. The Sharkbite valve is then pushed on to the pipe. Be sure it seats all the way in. The entire valve will always rotate even when fully seated. Connect the line to the toilet and you should be good to go.

BTY, don't forget to shut the main water valve off.

 

Jeff H Young

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Well the above suggestions are good . but you can even replace the entire guts, handle, stem , nut , and packing washer, without a shark bite or even use a compression stop with a insert in the pex.
Did you try holding the stop and tightening the nut just a wee bit ?
 

Sylvan

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When faced with this kind of problem such as a Brass craft globe valve.

I just buy the exact valve and remove the bonnet (nut) and install it on the existing body and your good to go for several more years plus it can be replaced in less tan 30 seconds
 

BECplumbing

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Is it possible to replace a rubber washer on a toilet shut-off valve shown below?

After shutting off this valve to install a new fill valve inside the toilet, then turning this shut-off valve back on, the drip was significant: about 1 cup water every 24 hours. After tightening the highlighted nut the valve now has a very slow leak (1/2 tsp over 24 hours).

This shut-off valve was installed in 1998 (west coast Canada).

Is it possible to replace a rubber washer on these valves? The size of that red circled nut is 7/8".

View attachment 97478
Personally I would just replace the whole valve because you have to buy the whole valve to get the part you need. But you can replace the washer in some circumstances
 

Sylvan

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Personally I would just replace the whole valve because you have to buy the whole valve to get the part you need. But you can replace the washer in some circumstances
Once you start a complete replacement your taking a chance of causing a leak

What is so difficult of loosening a nut and screwing another one back?

By replacing just the stem assembly your not disturbing the riser or inlet which is plastic.

Keeping it simple avoids most complication
 

BECplumbing

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Once you start a complete replacement your taking a chance of causing a leak

What is so difficult of loosening a nut and screwing another one back?

By replacing just the stem assembly your not disturbing the riser or inlet which is plastic.

Keeping it simple avoids most complication
yeah you do have a point. I was just saying you have to get the whole valve to get the part you need to do that
 

Sylvan

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yeah you do have a point. I was just saying you have to get the whole valve to get the part you need to do that
The "WHOLE VALVE" cost usually under $10.00

Most apprentices place no value on time or do not think what if something goes wrong.

This is a DIY person so we try to KIS the jobs as much as possible

Keep It Simple

It is a lot easier to hold back on the valve with a Crescent wrench and unscrew the bonnet nut.

Imagine if the part holding the valve is removed and the plastic snaps off inside the wall THEN WHAT?
 

Jeff H Young

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The "WHOLE VALVE" cost usually under $10.00

Most apprentices place no value on time or do not think what if something goes wrong.

This is a DIY person so we try to KIS the jobs as much as possible

Keep It Simple

It is a lot easier to hold back on the valve with a Crescent wrench and unscrew the bonnet nut.

Imagine if the part holding the valve is removed and the plastic snaps off inside the wall THEN WHAT?
Thats My thought exactly , why cut the pipe and attach a new valve ? the expansion joint is the most reliable but if the guy asking for help was experianced at working with pex he wouldnt have this question. plenty of ways to fix this and the keeping it simple plan seems to fit this case. like I said Ill do it this way sometimes too
 
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