toilet installation - enough clearance?

Discussion in 'Toilet Forum discussions' started by cosmokramer, Dec 22, 2004.

  1. cosmokramer

    cosmokramer New Member

    Messages:
    2
    hi all,
    I'm completing a bathroom in the basement, that has already been roughed in when we built the house. However, it seems the 4" drain for the toilet is a little close to the stud walls. The drain is in the corner of the roughed-in bathroom, 10.75 inches O.C. from 1 stud wall and 13.5 inches O.C. from the other stud wall. My question is... can I fit a toilet in this location? Or Do/Should I break up the concrete and relocate the drain in a better spot possibly in combination with an offset flange?
    I'd really rather find a toilet that fits...however i don't want to be backed into a corner either ;)

    i'd appreciate an help..... thanks!
  2. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,313
    Location:
    New England
    I think that I read most building codes require 15" from the centerline of the toilet to the finished wall. SOme people find this makes them feel confined and a larger space is required. Even if you found a toilet that would fit, it might not pass the inspection. I'm surprised it passed the rough-in inspection. They did not do anyone a good deed by placing it where they did, since a standard toilet requires 12" from the finished wall to the centerline of the flange. You don't have that in either direction.
  3. Deb

    Deb Plumber

    Messages:
    200
    Location:
    Idaho
    Deb

    You can purchase 10" rough-in toilets, but this does not address the 13.5" side clearance, which will be 13" when rocked. I would recommend that you either move the stud wall to give you a minimum of 15" or break up the concrete and move the flange. I doubt that an offset flange will work and I only use them if there is a structural member that cannot be cut into. Removing the concrete and relocating the flange is generally not that bad. If you are not comfortable with relocating the flange yourself, you can do the concrete and dirt removal and hire a plumber to do the plumbing part of this job.
    Deb
    The Pipewench
  4. cosmokramer

    cosmokramer New Member

    Messages:
    2
    thanks for the advice. Moving the stud wall is not an option...as it is load bearing. I'm not really keen on buying a 10" toilet at 3x the price either.
    Sooooooo...it looks like some concrete is goin to meet its demise ;)
    Thanks so much!
    Giddyapp!
    cosmo
  5. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,313
    Location:
    New England
    Toto's that use the unifit adapters use the same toilet with different adapters to allow installation at 10, 12, or 14". Good toilets, but moving the toilet drain is still probably the better idea - you won't have a problem with inspectors or on resale of the house if you provide the approved clearances. You could still go with Toto (made in Georgia) - biggest manufacturer in the world by a long shot.
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