Toilet flange too high not level

[scri8e]

The toilet flange is too high and it is not level.

It's thick gauge steel. Appears to be soddered on with lead. Had a torch in my plumbing box but no matches. Tenant lent me a lighter and tried to get the flange off. Torch didn't touch it. That flange isn't budging for nuthin. So it must be welded on? I have a new flange. I was hoping I could fit it inside of the existing. Nope. No go.

The flange is in a cement foundation, lower unit. Flange is too high and not level. The sewer pipe comes up through the flange and passes the edge of the flange by 3/8 of a inch approx. The pipe surface edge on one half is broken like someone tried to whittle it down with nippers or something. Leaving a screwed up surface edge on the right side of the flange.

Between the steel approx 3/8 thick flange bottom and the cement floor is a distance of a 1/2 an inch or so.

What has been happening for years and years is this toilet has been a problem. The toilet has been put on.... well more like stuck on there with the wax seal made to support the toilet. After some time passes the toilet loosens up. It starts wobbling. Things start failing.

How the heck do I cure this? Only thing I can think of is to pour a square around the toilet. Like a pedestal. Mount the toilet to that? ...shrug.... That seems rather mickey mou...

Or call in the big guns that have the tools to work with that steel. Cut it off level and put a new flange in?

I'm cursing the dumb fork that did this botch job to begin with. What I am trying to avoid is making the problem worse. This maybe painful in the wallet I realize.

What is the right way to fix this? The toilet flange is ruffed in when the dwelling is built. Is the only way I can figure out how this came to be. The specs of a ruff in toilet are?

Thank you for any advice you can give me. Appreciated.

 

[Gary Swart]

The flange is not soldered nor is is welded. It is a lead joint and the material is cast iron. Working with cast iron is not something a novice DIYer should mess with. You need to have a plumber remove and lower the flange. You can remove the lead by drill many holes around the joint then prying the lead out in pieces, but you would still have to deal with lowering the flange to the top of the floor. A flange is not intended to hold the toilet. The toilet weight is supported by the skirting. The flange provides the base for the wax ring which is just partly compressed by the toilet to create the seal. The flange bolts hold the toilet from moving back and forth or tipping. The flange needs to be screwed into the sub floor in several places and is set on top of the finished floor. If the floor is level, then the toilet will set firmly on the floor with zero rocking, the wax ring will seal. the flange bolts just need to be snugged down to prevent movement. A professional will see to it that all of the above is done.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[scri8e]

Thank you.

 

[Mikey]

Or you could put in a full-size shim to raise the toilet. I'm sure there's a name for them.

 

[Gary Swart]

They do make a plate, probably plastic, that is used to raise the toilet. In my opinion they would be a distant second to putting the flange where it belongs, but probably would work if it was the right thickness. I don't know how you would fit it so that it would be under the flange unless cut a circle just large enough to circle the drain pipe then split it down the center and slide the two sides back together. It would leave a visible seam Bottom line is, the flange absolutely has to be resting on a solid surface or your problem will continue and I fear you might be in danger of breaking the toilet. So you have a choice between the professional way and the handyman way. Not to imply the Mikey is a handyman. I probably could have worded this post a bit more tactfully, huh!

 

[Mikey]

No, the shoe fits, and I'll wear it. I agree the flange should be solidly fastened to the floor. He did say the flange doesn't move, though, and I'll take him at his word. I might be inclined to put the spacer between the flange and the floor, then use an appropriate fastener through the flange and spacer into the floor, to add suspenders to the existing belt...

 

[scri8e]

No offense intended. The spacer/shim will not work in this case. The
toilet shirt which is what supports the weight would be hang'n in mid air on the right side. Not only is the flange too high it is not level to begin with.


I have had problems with this toilet for years. Only this round I got down to the source of the problem. I went to tighten up the toilet for the third time because it kept on loosening up and rocking and a bopping. Gently tightened the floor bolt. Then tightening the bolts on the tank. .....I hear a snap crackle dull pop.... rut row....yup...
shirt snapped with a wide 10" arc on the right side centered at the bolt.

I called for my fav plumber after the first response. Clear to me what needed to be done. Thank you for your insight. He is not available until Monday morning. He is worth the wait. Tenant has 2 bathrooms so I lucked out. Not a fire drill. Also this tenant is level headed and 11 year tenant. I'm the owner BTW.

Working with rental properties and plumbing problems, tenants often get emotionally super charged. Expect things to be cured in a snap. When I calm them down and make them realize that if they were the owner of the dwelling they would not only have to go through the repair but pay for it. They come around to center.

"There is nothing worse than a hot, dirty, full of __ & ___ tenant."
I'm sure as Plumbers you all can relate.

Make it a great day!

Josh Long Beach CA Landlord

 

[Gary Swart]

I hope you have read enough on this forum to know that a Toto is the best bang for the buck when buying a toilet. More money that lots of Big Box stuff, but there is a reason for that. Put in a Toto and you're toilet troubles will be over. That's after dealing with the flange of course.