Cooper
New Member
Hello Plumbing Gurus:
I live in Indy and my crawlspace is dry, unless it is exceptionally rainy. We had record-setting rainfall in June (2x avg) and July (almost 3x avg). This led to water trapped on top of the Stego plastic in my encapsulated crawlspace; the only way to remove it was with sponge and bucket (not fun ). Even though this is rare, I think it is time to install a sump pump (wired for it in 1968, but never installed). After doing considerable research, I still have a few questions:
1) Since this is not run-off water (gutters new with proper 4' extensions) and only happens rarely, I am convinced it is simply groundwater rising into the crawlspace. For this reason, I think the proper pit is the Saber Pit since it allows water ingress from the water table before it reaches the top of the pit (holes in basin instead of drain lines), yet is designed to keep dirt out. Do you agree this is the one to use? Have any of you had good/bad experiences with this design?
2) The Saber Pit is designed to be installed with a surrounding layer (4") of stones on the bottom and sides to separate sediment and improve water flow. Some suggest 3/4 in. river rock, others just say gravel. Which is correct? Have you ever used a screen/sock around the basin? What about the styrofoam fill designed to go under french drains?
3) The house is a 1650' ranch, rectangular. There are concrete foundation ties that divide the rectangle longways, and separate a square room behind the garage. This results in a crawlspace divided into 3 parts. Will one sump pit drain ground water effectively under the foundation ties from those 3 areas?
4) Check valve: ball-and-spring or flapper? A Univ. of IL professor prefers the flapper, but it looks pretty cheap. Is the ball likely to freeze or become clogged?
5) In order to drain down a steep slope, there will be 10 feet of pipe outside the house. I am planning only two 22.5 degree bends so the pipe remains as empty as possible between cycles. Is there anything else I can do as freeze protection? I am planning a cleanout as soon as the pipe leaves the house in case I need to thaw the pipe with alcohol. Is a cleanout advisable for a sump discharge, and should it be outside so it is accessible?
6) This last one for Master Mark - I live in Hill Valley West, near 135 & Stop 11, inside Marion County. A newly-completed "combined sewer" holding tank has been installed at the water treatment plant on Southport Road (and my sewer bill has tripled). Is mine now a "combined sewer", as defined in the city code, so I may now connect my sump pump to my home drain line?
Thanks very much Terry, and everyone who can offer some wisdom!
Cooper
I live in Indy and my crawlspace is dry, unless it is exceptionally rainy. We had record-setting rainfall in June (2x avg) and July (almost 3x avg). This led to water trapped on top of the Stego plastic in my encapsulated crawlspace; the only way to remove it was with sponge and bucket (not fun ). Even though this is rare, I think it is time to install a sump pump (wired for it in 1968, but never installed). After doing considerable research, I still have a few questions:
1) Since this is not run-off water (gutters new with proper 4' extensions) and only happens rarely, I am convinced it is simply groundwater rising into the crawlspace. For this reason, I think the proper pit is the Saber Pit since it allows water ingress from the water table before it reaches the top of the pit (holes in basin instead of drain lines), yet is designed to keep dirt out. Do you agree this is the one to use? Have any of you had good/bad experiences with this design?
2) The Saber Pit is designed to be installed with a surrounding layer (4") of stones on the bottom and sides to separate sediment and improve water flow. Some suggest 3/4 in. river rock, others just say gravel. Which is correct? Have you ever used a screen/sock around the basin? What about the styrofoam fill designed to go under french drains?
3) The house is a 1650' ranch, rectangular. There are concrete foundation ties that divide the rectangle longways, and separate a square room behind the garage. This results in a crawlspace divided into 3 parts. Will one sump pit drain ground water effectively under the foundation ties from those 3 areas?
4) Check valve: ball-and-spring or flapper? A Univ. of IL professor prefers the flapper, but it looks pretty cheap. Is the ball likely to freeze or become clogged?
5) In order to drain down a steep slope, there will be 10 feet of pipe outside the house. I am planning only two 22.5 degree bends so the pipe remains as empty as possible between cycles. Is there anything else I can do as freeze protection? I am planning a cleanout as soon as the pipe leaves the house in case I need to thaw the pipe with alcohol. Is a cleanout advisable for a sump discharge, and should it be outside so it is accessible?
6) This last one for Master Mark - I live in Hill Valley West, near 135 & Stop 11, inside Marion County. A newly-completed "combined sewer" holding tank has been installed at the water treatment plant on Southport Road (and my sewer bill has tripled). Is mine now a "combined sewer", as defined in the city code, so I may now connect my sump pump to my home drain line?
Thanks very much Terry, and everyone who can offer some wisdom!
Cooper