Solder and Flux

[White Tiger]

What is the best brand of solder and flux to use for copper pipe?

 

[Rancher]

Typically all solders are the same, use a silver/tin mix for the solder 60/40 comes to mind, I thing the tin is 60%. For flux I use the Oatley self tinning flux, that way the solder will flow into the joint easier for non-professionals.

Rancher

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Bob NH]

I think most of the lead-free solders that are reasonably priced are tin/antimony 95/5. Without looking at my roll, I don't remember which is tin and which is antimony.

I use the Oatey 95 tinning flux with very good results.

 

[Gary Swart]

I really haven't seen any significate difference in solder or flux brands. I've switched brands of solder in the middle of jobs and one works as well as the other. I do prefer a paste flux as opposed to water based, but again brand name isn't a concern to me.

 

[hj]

95 tin, 5 antimony.

 

[Winslow]

Bridgit and Silverbright flow really nice as far a solder goes, Oatey or hercules are fine fluxes

 

[Dunbar Plumbing]

I've had great success with tinning flux. Still is pliable in most cases in cold climate as well.

 

[Kordts]

I use "No-Korrode" cold weather flux year round. I bought 40 rolls of Oatey solder on e-Bay for 3 bucks a roll, it works great. 95/5 is all that's allowed in Illinois for water pipe. For DWV, 50/50 works great.

 

[Dunbar Plumbing]

I use "No-Korrode" cold weather flux year round. I bought 40 rolls of Oatey solder on e-Bay for 3 bucks a roll, it works great. 95/5 is all that's allowed in Illinois for water pipe. For DWV, 50/50 works great.

That was a steal of a deal right there. I'm down to my last 10 rolls but I don't do too much copper work in service. Here and there so it lasts quite a while.....like 4 rolls a year. Had to switch to small tins because the flux would separate due to age.

 

[Cass]

The flux seperates due to summer heat in the truck. I lke the Oatey pre tinning flux.

 

[Kordts]

I stir my flux every time I use it.

 

[Dunbar Plumbing]

A habit I should get used to but my soldering tools sit inside a heated/cooled cab all the time.

The dirt that would build in those containers would cost me a leak so I switched to small amounts pitch the can.


Does anyone know if there is any validity to always setting your B/MC tanks vertical at all times?

Some Lennox rep trying to sell me a handler for my MC and told me that the gas in the tank can explode in the horizontal position.

I've been laying it in a long box with foam bottom and I turn it upright when I use it; been doing this for 13 years. Doesn't mean it is right though.

 

[Kordts]

I bought the Lenox MC set-up. I love it. It's mostly horizontal.

 

[Phil H2]

I am not a fan of straight 95/5, but I only used it on one job where it was specified. I can get use to it, but it has a narrower temperature range than most of the lead free plumbing solders. I am with winslow and have mostly used bridgit and silvabrite. I am not fussy, it is whatever the supply house stocks. My favorite is whatever I have been using recently.

 

[hj]

acetylene

You must use an acetylene tank in the vertical position. Otherwise the acetone it is dissolved in can be pulled into the torch with the acetylene. If you carry it laid down, it will not explode, but you should give it time to stabilze once you return it to the proper vertical orientation.

 

[Kordts]

It travels horizontally but works vertically.

 

[Solsacre]

Your not asking the right questions. Most plumbers just have personal preferences. You can tell that just by reading so many different responses. The type of flux and what materials arn't the question, I'm non brand loyal, I use whatever.... I work for a shop that uses only copper water lines, so I run alot of pipe, and it's not the materials, it's how you use it. I have about one to three leaks a year. You have to practice. If you are a beginner you should start with propane. It won't "burn" the flux out as quickly. Only use enough heat to make solder flow. Only use as much solder as needed. (a 1/2 inch fitting only takes a 1/2 inch of solder). Take a piece of pipe and put a coupling on the end of it. heat it up gently, and slowly until the solder starts to flow. and only enough so that it doesn't quite drip. Let it cool. inspect. Look inside if it is ringed all the way around, and same on the outside It's a great joint. If not cut it off and try again. Each and every joint is different, the trick is to get the fitting and the pipe up to temp at the same time all the way around... If it's a ball valve your soldering, than spend a lot more time with the heat on the valve and work it around to bring it's temp up. Use your minds eye to see the pipe heat up and think of what parts might be too hot or too cold. It is true that most solder and flux is different, but the only way you will find out what is best for you is to experament... have fun with it... and what you will find is that your preferences are totally different than anyone elses. good luck

dances-with-pumps

 

[Cass]

Funny now / not so funny then story. Years back I was working on a basement remodel and was putting all the water lines above the joyces so the ceiling could be rocked. While soldering in the meter access area I kept seeing what I thought was a flame about 10" away from my hand held propane tank. Odd I thought, was that really a flame? Suddenly the flame on the end of the tank popped and there in its place was a ball of flame the size and shape of a soccer ball, blazing / roaring away. I gently put it down and grabbed my can Halon. 1 small puff and it was out. Talk about scaring the pants off me.