Softener, What type of system is this?
- Thread starter laborer90
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I would take a picture with the black covers off and a few more of the back and post. If I was to guess, perhaps a Fleck 9xxx series? As for as options, as other posts discuss, you should post more info on your water source (well/city), number of people in house, hardness, any specific known water issues, and consider getting a water test.
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You can buy new resin for your old softener. You can buy a whole new softener with resin.
I see your tank says 9x48 on the label. Usually that would have 1 cubic ft of media. When replacing resin, that is a nice size. You get better prices on 1.0 cubic ft of resin than with 1.5 cubic ft.
Looks like a nice system, and it is good that you have had 18 good years already. Some would replace it. You can clean or rebuild the controller. Your controller is a timed controller, so it would not be as salt-efficient as a demand softener. On the other hand, when handling iron, you usually want to not go too long before regenerating. So for you a timed softener might be reasonable.
If you got a nice backwashing iron+h2s filter before the softener, that would make the softener's job much easier. It would also address H2S smell from the well, if you have that.
http://www.softenerparts.com/Fleck_Repair_Parts_s/4.htm will help you identify your controller after you lift the cover. It will also have links to a service manual.
I see your tank says 9x48 on the label. Usually that would have 1 cubic ft of media. When replacing resin, that is a nice size. You get better prices on 1.0 cubic ft of resin than with 1.5 cubic ft.
Looks like a nice system, and it is good that you have had 18 good years already. Some would replace it. You can clean or rebuild the controller. Your controller is a timed controller, so it would not be as salt-efficient as a demand softener. On the other hand, when handling iron, you usually want to not go too long before regenerating. So for you a timed softener might be reasonable.
If you got a nice backwashing iron+h2s filter before the softener, that would make the softener's job much easier. It would also address H2S smell from the well, if you have that.
http://www.softenerparts.com/Fleck_Repair_Parts_s/4.htm will help you identify your controller after you lift the cover. It will also have links to a service manual.
ditttohead
Water systems designer, R&D
2510 valve. Probably a mechanical valve, no meter. Definitely time to update. Virtually all new valves include a metering device to increase the systems efficiency. That is a good valve but a newer valve would be desirable. Your system size is also a little smaller than what is considered normal nowadays.
No. Purolite is usually more expensive.
Do you feel it's worth the money? We have very hard water and some iron. What resin would you recommend?
ditttohead
Water systems designer, R&D
Purolite is fine. Considering you are repairing a 20 year old system... you got your moneys worth on the resin. You would need 1 ft3 of resin. I would highly recommend updating to a modern efficient design. Neutralizer tanks now come with dome hole for easier maintenance. Modern valves have metering devices for massive efficiency improvements. have you done a recent water analysis? Without that it is hard to say much else. Do you at least have a hach 5b hardness test kit, tds meter, pH, and an iron test kit? These would be the minimum DIY test kits I would recommend after you get a real water test done.
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