Shower panel conversion connections adding a shut off valve.

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Scooter B

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I've completed a shower demolition in a HUD home I purchased. There apparently was a chronic leak behind the wall where drywall was originally installed and tiled over and shower pan was leaking as well. The tile was falling out into the shower floor at the bottom of the wall underneath the shower. The leak had previously been repaired where several tiles and the drywall behind were cleanly cut out to access the pipes.

Definitely replacing with cement board backer and hiring out replacing the shower pan and tile work. Unfortunately I did not think to measure or mark the depth of the shower base and pan so I'm a little unsure about determining the optimal height for the shower panel location.

Instead of replacing the overhead shower head (which was much too low for me anyway), I am going to install a stainless steel shower panel (Decor Star 004-SS) http://www.amazon.com/Decor-Star-00...static/dp/B0071FAKZM/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Current plumbing is 1/2" copper all the way up to the previous shower head connection. Shower panel connectors are 1/2" FIP flexible hose.

I'm probably being paranoid but with all the work of tearing this out and replacing it I would like to add a shut off valve behind the panel just in case. Hooking up the panel to the water supply will involve cutting the brass piping to terminate at a somewhat lower level and ideally connecting directly to a dual shut off valve box. I'm not sure if arrestors would be a good idea but I never shower when the washing machine is running and its a single level house so I'm thinking arrestors would not be needed. Some customers reviewing similar products used washing machine shut off valves in housings that mounted to the studs behind drywall or cement board. If possible and a relatively fool proof option (i.e. reliably leak free) is available I would like to handle the hook ups myself.

What product and fitting type would you recommend for my situation?

Q1. Compression fitting or soldering?

Q2. Can anyone recommend a shut off valve product that would be a one stop solution for accepting 1/2" non threaded copper water supply lines and terminating in 1/2" MIP connections to the panel? Alternatively I would welcome a shut off valve product that would require a compatible fitting that is DIY friendly for the non threaded 1/2" copper supply line.

I already had pipe cutters, flaring tools etc and picked up a torch for soldering plumbing connections (with the rotating flame for wrap around circulation) and some extra brass pipe fittings to practice on first and see how I do. What I don't have are thread cutters large enough for plumbing work. Later I thought I probably don't want to chance it for something behind the shower panel and wall if it involves a kind of soldering I have not done before.

I know compression fittings might be an option but I also remember reading something about only certain kinds of water supply connections behind walls meeting code, but it has been a while and I don't have that reference material handy at the moment.
 

Gary Swart

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Lots of plumber like compression fittings for shutoff valves, but Soldering is still a very reliable joint. As a DIY, I would opt for soldered joints behind walls and when it is very unlikely the joint would ever have to be undone. If you do not know how to sweat copper, it is not difficult to learn, but I would suggest you get a few pieces of pipe and some fittings for practice. Here are a few basics. Cut the pipe square with a tubing cutter. Deburr the inside of the pipe, and clean the pipe end and inside of the fitting just before soldering. Apply flux to both pieces. Heat the joint until solder melts when the joint is touched...do not melt the solder with the torch flame. When the joint is heated, apply solder to the joint, moving the torch around the joint opposite of where the solder is being applied. Understand the solder will be pulled into the joint, so don't keep applying solder. Allow the solder to cool naturally and don't move the joint while it is cooling. After the joint is cooled, use a damp rag and clean the burned flux off the joint. You can not sweat a joint if the is water in or close to the joint. The water will get hot before the solder melts and the resulting steam will prevent the joint from heating enough. If you have a joint that leaks, it must be completely disassembled and redone from step one. You can not reheat and run more solder. Keep a spray bottle of water handy in case you get too close to wood and start a fire. Use either a metal shield (I like an opened #10 can) or you can buy a shield to use where working close to wood.
 
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