Shower escutcheon installation

Discussion in 'Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog' started by jimz06, Mar 16, 2008.

  1. jimz06

    jimz06 New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Location:
    Washington
    We're installing a new shower enclosure and reusing the Delta 1400 series shower hardware. I didn't do the demolition of the old enclosure so I'm not privy how the escutcheon was installed in the first place. Based on the Delta literature I obtained I purchased a bracket and plaster guard from Delta which looks like it will provide an attachment for the escutcheon.

    Now it's not clear to me how large a hole I should put in the enclosure and none of the Delta manuals gives a dimension. I suspect I need some margin to allow some tolerance for fit up and lining up the escutcheon bolt with the brackets but I don't want to compromise the sealing. Also, the sealing doesn't seem that robust with just a foam strip around the outside of the escutcheon and another one around the valve. I would appreciate some guidance on the hole size and what sealing steps I need to take to make this a good installation. Thanks.

    Jim
  2. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    21,820
    Location:
    New England
    Typically (I don't know if this applies to a Delta), you make the opening so just the plaster guard sticks through the finished surface. On that, there may be a min/max set of lines to identify the proper depth in the wall. The screws attach to the valve, and if the depth is correct, will allow you to tighten the plate tight against the finished wall. Note, some people have complained about 'too much' of the handle sticking out if the valve is set near the max extension value...this is a personal preference, most people prefer it to be closer to the wall with less sticking out, but may not be possible depending on the wall depth.

    The foam strips are fine to seal it. there is usually a small section on the bottom missing to allow any moisture that might get through (and there shouldn't really be any) to drip out past that gap. You can silicon it in place, but then would have a major pain getting it off for service, and are likely to bend it while attempting to do it.
  3. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,285
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    Delta

    Why would you go to the trouble of replacing the enclosure and not upgrade the valve to a pressure balance, and also "legal" one? That would come under the " penny wise and pound foolish" category. But if you do silicone the plate, it does not have to be removed to service the valve so you are okay there.
  4. jimz06

    jimz06 New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Location:
    Washington
    Didn't realize the valve itself needed to be upgraded. All the plumbing was in place and I don't trust my plumbing skills to take on the valve replacement. The enclosure is a Sterling fiberglass 4 piece unit from Lowe's. Looks like a 4 inch dia hole should do it. Is a holesaw the way to go or would I be able to route it with a Dremel?
  5. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,285
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    delta

    Didn't realize the valve itself needed to be upgraded. All the plumbing was in place and I don't trust my plumbing skills to take on the valve replacement

    Not a good enough answer. You are setting yourself up for possible future problems. If you can't do it, a plumber can, and his cost will be a small portion of what the remodel is costing. If he does it now. If he has to do it in the future it will cost a lot more. DIY is okay, but not when it is "DIY or nothing".
  6. jimz06

    jimz06 New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Location:
    Washington
    Thanks hj, will look into getting a quote.
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