replace toilet flange on concrete floor

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & ' started by shiftyc, Sep 17, 2007.

  1. shiftyc

    shiftyc New Member

    Messages:
    4
    How does one replace a broken toilet flange on a concrete floor? What tools are needed? Should this be done by a professional plumber only?--Thanks, Bob
  2. Old Dog

    Old Dog G.C. 22+ years(in 3 states)

    Messages:
    82
    Location:
    Hawaii
    toilet flange...

    Some of the regular pro's will chime in when they log on in the morning...
    More info will help.Is the broken flange plastic or metal that has rusted away?
    Tile or vinyl on the floor?
    There are repair flanges available but not for every situation.You will have to break out the concrete around the flange to replace it.Your own abilities and experience using tools will determine if you can tackle this yourself...
  3. GrumpyPlumber

    GrumpyPlumber Licensed Grump

    Messages:
    1,404
    Location:
    Licensed Grump
    Two questions.
    Is the flange cast iron?
    When you look down into the flange, does the 90 elbow start directly below or is there a small amount of distance?
    ...a pic might help.
  4. shiftyc

    shiftyc New Member

    Messages:
    4
    broken flange

    The flange is plastic and unlevel. It's broke on one side where the bolt slides in. There is no tile or linoleum. Carpeting is laid up to outer edge of old bowl. Does the flange have to be cut out? What tool/tools are needed? Thanks
  5. statjunk

    statjunk DIY Senior Member

    Messages:
    542
    I'd wait for a pro. My approach to the problem would be to sawzall the old flange off and buy a replacement flange that fits inside the pipe and with allen screws compresses itself into place.

    I'd check before I cut the flange off that the new replacement flange will fit in the pipe.

    Again I'd wait for a pro to chime in.

    Tom
  6. GrumpyPlumber

    GrumpyPlumber Licensed Grump

    Messages:
    1,404
    Location:
    Licensed Grump
    Shiftyc, please, try to answer the two questions I asked above.
  7. shiftyc

    shiftyc New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Grumpy,

    The flange is plastic and I believe it goes directly into the 90 degree elbow, but I'm not on the site at this moment so I can't be 100 % sure. I'd have to eyeball it again to be sure.
  8. GrumpyPlumber

    GrumpyPlumber Licensed Grump

    Messages:
    1,404
    Location:
    Licensed Grump
    Sorry, forgot you'd answered the material question.
    The reason I asked, IF the flange isn't directly on a 90 (elbow), it can be cut with an id cutter.
    Thats a cutting wheel on a shaft that attaches to a drill and is small enough to fit inside the pipe.
    If the flange is close, or glued into a 90, may have to break out the rotary.
  9. molo

    molo Member

    Messages:
    845
    Location:
    cold new york
    The next question is why isn't it level? Is the 90 tilted wrong? What would he do here?
  10. patrick88

    patrick88 Plumber

    Messages:
    836
    Location:
    Webster Ma.
    If the 90 is tilted wrong then he would want to open the floor and fix it. Cutting the 90 out and replacing it and the flange. Whom ever installed the toilet could have cranked the bolt hard and bent that one side of the flange and cracking it. I'm just giving it a guess because I can't see it.
  11. statjunk

    statjunk DIY Senior Member

    Messages:
    542
    Can he use the adaptor that I'm describing?

    Tom
  12. GrumpyPlumber

    GrumpyPlumber Licensed Grump

    Messages:
    1,404
    Location:
    Licensed Grump
    I wouldn't on 3", constricts the drain size.
    Also, in my usual form, I missed the part about the flange not being level.
    If it's only out by 1/8" it's workable, if it's out by 3/4" it's time to get out the rotary hammer.
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