Removed toilet, now what?

Discussion in 'Toilet Forum discussions' started by jimatwen, Aug 18, 2007.

  1. jimatwen

    jimatwen New Member

    Removed the lower level toilet in my 27 y.o. split level, due to a leak. Toilet didn't have the normal attachment, it was bolted down to the floor with what looked like lag bolts. One of them twisted right off due to rust. Couple questions. Is this a normal attachment in an older lower level bathroom? Or just one more quick fix from the p o? How do I get the broken bolt out? Tried the vise grip and turn method.
  2. This toilet should have been bolted (slide-in bolts) to a toilet flange that is bolted to the floor on top of the finished floor level. A toilet is then sealed to the flange with a wax ring.
    Is it on a slab or on a wood floor over a basement or crawlspace? Does it have a flange? What type of drain pipe does it have?
  3. Verdeboy

    Verdeboy In the Trades

    If the lag bolt can't come out by the vise-grip method, I would just use an angle grinder to cut it off or grind it down to floor level and just leave it there. Then Install a toilet flange as previously described.
  4. jimatwen

    jimatwen New Member

    It's a slab. With a sheet of linolium glued to it. The tube is pvc. Considered a basement bath room. This isn't the only questionable item the previous owner left me.
  5. leejosepho

    leejosepho DIY scratch-pad engineer

    In my own experience, it used to be common to bolt a toilet *through* the flange and directly to the floor rather than merely bolting it to a flange attached to the floor. If you look at the toilet bolts available at the store, you will likely see some studs that have machine threads on one end and lag threads on the other, and those are for bolting a toilet directly to either a wooden floor or to lead anchors in a concrete floor.

    One thing you might do here is to use a small hole or core saw for concrete to make holes for setting in new lead anchors. Cutting away part of the outer edge of the flange to do that would not cause any problem, but be sure you remain inside the outer width of your toilet!
  6. jimatwen

    jimatwen New Member

    Thank you guys for your responses and help. Going to try removing broken bolt ,new wax ring and put back togeather.
  7. Gary Swart

    Gary Swart In the Trades

    Yakima WA
    How to anchor toilets to concrete is a frequent topic. There are several ways that will work, but my preference is to use a rotary hammer drill to drill holes for lead inserts. A regular drill will not work for this. If you don't own a hammer-drill, they are easily rented. After I put the inserts in the holes, I use #12 stainless steel sheet metal screws to hold the flange. Remember, the flange should rest on top of the finished floor. Drill the holes a little deeper than the screw length. I have used this method to attach electrical boxes to concrete walls and 2x4s to walls and floors. You don't need stainless steel unless there is a chance of moisture. For me, this is easier, cheaper, and at least as fast as Tapcon bolts. It does help that I own my own small rotary hammer drill so I don't have to rent one each time I want to drill a hole.
  8. jimatwen

    jimatwen New Member

    Hey Gary, thanks for your help. Thanks to you all. Saved me from my self and a big bill from Steve the Plumber.
  9. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Cave Creek, Arizona

    That used to be the way they installed toilets over lead closet bends. If they did it in "newer" home, then the plumber must not have installed a flange, and did not protect the riser from being imbedded in the concrete which would have made attaching a flange a more dificult job.
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