Question about removing valve (Fleck 2510)

Discussion in 'Water Softener Forum, problems, installation and r' started by chargedmr2, Jul 28, 2010.

  1. chargedmr2

    chargedmr2 New Member

    Messages:
    15
    Location:
    TX
    Quick question:

    I'm installing a new 2510 water softener and after filling the media tank with resin I put the control valve on. After doing so, I remembered that I should fill the tank with water to reduce the amount of air in the lines when the system goes live. I removed the control valve, added water, and screwed the valve back on.

    Now to my question--should I have taken the resin out and made sure that the distributor tube was seated all the way down to the bottom before putting the valve back on??

    I read on this forum that removing the control valve means that the resin needs to come out as well, otherwise the distributor tube may have risen (from pulling the valve off) and then could break when the valve is screwed back on due to resin getting under it and causing too much pressure on the tube as the valve tightens down.

    The last thing I need is resin in my water lines!
  2. Akpsdvan

    Akpsdvan In the Trades

    Messages:
    1,483
    Location:
    Alaska
    Did you put gravel down at the bottom of the media tank?

    When you put the valve back on the tank was the distributor tube above the threads of the tank?

    If the tube was not above the top of the threads then no worries...

    If it was just a little say 1/4" then also I would not worry..
  3. chargedmr2

    chargedmr2 New Member

    Messages:
    15
    Location:
    TX
    The tube was about even or maybe just a hair over the threads--nothing noticeable anyway. I have only resin, no gravel in the tank.

    Everything is ready to go, except that I can't find 3/4" ID PE drain tube anywhere.
  4. Akpsdvan

    Akpsdvan In the Trades

    Messages:
    1,483
    Location:
    Alaska
    Watts 1/2 thread to slip.... then 1/2" poly tube with a tube insert...
    The watts is at like home depot along with the other 2 items.... what would work for your drain is that is what you are working on.
  5. chargedmr2

    chargedmr2 New Member

    Messages:
    15
    Location:
    TX
    My drain line needs to be fairly long (about 35') to run from valve down to floor across length of garage, back up about 5' and then through a wall into the laundry room to reach washer drain. I've read that 1/2" is not large enough for this run. I think Fleck manual actually says to upsize from 1/2" on runs longer than 20'. Home depot near me only has the 3/8 ID PE drain tube. Is 3/4" PE really that uncommon at hardware/plumbing places?
  6. Bob999

    Bob999 In the Trades

    Messages:
    448
    Location:
    Pennsylvania
    You can use 3/4" PVC for the run.
  7. chargedmr2

    chargedmr2 New Member

    Messages:
    15
    Location:
    TX
    Bob,

    Would PVC be ok even if I had to incorporate quite a few elbows? It's not exactly a straight shot to the drain since I have to pass though a wall as well as cabinets--I would probably need 5 elbows in the run.
  8. Bob999

    Bob999 In the Trades

    Messages:
    448
    Location:
    Pennsylvania
    You will be fine with 5 elbows.
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