pipe/joint seating ?

[web_surfer]

Have a question relating to the seating of copper pipes in joints.

We are having house replumbed, went with copper. Pipes were all laid out, measured & cut to proper lengths. Now, after pipes are sweat there is about 1/2" difference in length. There are only two joints in this 20' (two 10' sections) - a coupling and then a 90 at the end. The origination end was already sweat and is the fixed starting point for this run. So, as a result I am thinking that at least one of the three joints is not fully set. Is this a real problem - in my reading, etc. they should be fully set - why they aren't is beyond me. Had holders and other points along the 20' run marked. The plumber is a journeyman with 10+ years experience. He did not seem to concerned - should I be? Did check his license, etc. and appeared to be OK. I guess if I call a plumber and get a journeyman w/ 10+ years experience what more do I need to do to get the job done right.

No water has been run through the system yet - can the joints be reheated and reset tight?

Thanks,
Matt

 

[web_surfer]

Just to clarify - the difference is 1/2" longer.

Matt

 

[Sponsor]

 

[hj]

pipe

It could be a mistake in measuring, or the joints may not be inserted fully. But there is no way for us, or anyone else, to tell without taking the joints apart. It could be something as simple as he did not deduct for the length of a fitting at one end. That is the reason we do not PRECUT the system. We make the pieces as we go along to compensate rather than have any discrepencies accumulate until they create a problem.

 

[web_surfer]

Did not say anything about taking joints apart & I do not consider two 10' sections joined with coupling in middle and a 90 at the end precutting the system - it was a dry fit to check measurements & angles. I guess it should have been clarified that only the two 10' sections & joint & 90 were measured, cut & dry fitted. Then after actually soldered together was ½" longer.

My two main questions (in general, not necessarily pertaining to the plumbing work done in my house) were:

a) whether or not a not fully seated joint is a problem?

b) if the joint could be reheated and pushed together tightly?

Thanks

 

[Jadnashua]

If you haven't run water through it, yes, you can heat it and re-seat the couplings.

 

[hj]

length

The obvious question is when the pipe was reassembled, but BEFORE it was soldered, WHY wasn't the extra length apparent? Normally you would put the entire thing together, including its termination, and THEN solder it. Right now, you probably have no idea IF a joint was not inserted all the way, OR which one, or ones, it is. The success in resoldering a joint depends on whether a liquid has been inside the pipe, and how long it has been since the original joint was made. You can reheat the joint and slide the tubing in, but you will have absolutely no assurance that the new solder will flow all the way in and make a proper joint. In fact, since the flux which induces the solder to flow was "burned" off during the original soldering, and any exposed copper was oxidized, it is unlikely that it will happen.

 

[web_surfer]

Hj

"The obvious question is when the pipe was reassembled, but BEFORE it was soldered, WHY wasn't the extra length apparent?"
Exactly - that is my question. I can clearly see it and I am not a plumber. Based on the fact he had to tilt one of the holders that was straight in the dry fit should have been a clue. Plus the distance between the pipe in question and the one next to it is ½" more than what it is in the dry fit. The distance between the pipes in dry fit was about 1½", now about 2". So I think ½" difference in 1½" should have been noticeable given that he had to tilt the one holder out of dry fit position ½"


"Right now, you probably have no idea IF a joint was not inserted all the way, OR which one, or ones, it is."
Evidently it will have to stay that way based on your answer about reheating the joint - not worth the risk of maybe weakening one or more of the joints.

If a t-drill was used there would only be about ¼" of soldered joint, so maybe a not fully seated joint is no worse.

Thank you

 

[hj]

T-drill

You DO NOT solder T-Turned tees. You MUST braze/silver solder them. THAT is the difference between the two situations. IF you have ever done it and then soldered the connection, then you created a future leak for someone. I had to fix one like that a few weeks ago. It was 30 years old and when I cut the 1" branch tubing, the copper "fell" out of the T-Turned connection.

 

[web_surfer]

HJ,

Nope, never done it & don't plan on it. Only limit my plumbing to very basic stuff, that is why hired plumber to do the replumb of house. Thanks for the clarification.