PEX angle stop replacement. What should I do!?

[Jadnashua]

It looks like whomever put the stops on used either some PTFE tape or pipe dope on them...neither is needed or a good idea on a compression fitting. Using PTFE tape on the threads can CAUSE a leak, not stop one on a compression fitting. Pipe dope just acts like a dust magnet and won't prevent a leak...on a tapered iron pipe thread, you need it, but not on a compression fittings straight threads as they are just there for securing things rather than sealing, more like a nut on a bolt.

PEX needs to be protected from UV light, so you may want to use a trim piece over it, but it probably won't matter if they never see direct sunlight.

If you use the stiffening insert on the PEX, and you tighten it up properly, it's no more likely to come off than doing the same thing with copper pipe...it works and there are millions of them out there.

Other than needing two wrenches to install a compression fitting (one to hold the fitting and the second one to tighten up the compression nut), I think it's easier than trying to get a crimping tool in there where you may not have a lot of room, it needs to be square and not cocked to make the connection properly. Unless you have a power tool, some of the tools take a fair amount of grip strength, more than it takes to hold a wrench in place.

Everyone has their own preferences, sometimes tempered by experience and the tools they own, but compression fittings on pex work just fine.

 

[Reach4]

If I have enough room to crimp, I will.

The first tool I showed ( post #6) crimps with the aid of a locking pliers. I would think it would be able to be used with the smallest of places, compared to most pex crimp tools. https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBi...ith-Integrated-Go-No-Go-Gauge-23383/205435373

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jamesd42]

One more quick question.

would it be acceptable to remove the compression fitting and crimp a new fitting directly onto the PEX? Or do I need to trim off the end of PEX that was in the compression fitting and attach to that?

 

[Jamesd42]

It looks like whomever put the stops on used either some PTFE tape or pipe dope on them...neither is needed or a good idea on a compression fitting. Using PTFE tape on the threads can CAUSE a leak, not stop one on a compression fitting. Pipe dope just acts like a dust magnet and won't prevent a leak...on a tapered iron pipe thread, you need it, but not on a compression fittings straight threads as they are just there for securing things rather than sealing, more like a nut on a bolt.

PEX needs to be protected from UV light, so you may want to use a trim piece over it, but it probably won't matter if they never see direct sunlight.

If you use the stiffening insert on the PEX, and you tighten it up properly, it's no more likely to come off than doing the same thing with copper pipe...it works and there are millions of them out there.

Other than needing two wrenches to install a compression fitting (one to hold the fitting and the second one to tighten up the compression nut), I think it's easier than trying to get a crimping tool in there where you may not have a lot of room, it needs to be square and not cocked to make the connection properly. Unless you have a power tool, some of the tools take a fair amount of grip strength, more than it takes to hold a wrench in place.

Everyone has their own preferences, sometimes tempered by experience and the tools they own, but compression fittings on pex work just fine.

excellent information. Thank you.

The house was built in 2004 and we just bought it about 3 moths ago. So hard telling why they did some of the things. I’m just going through everything in hopes of preventing bigger issues later on. I’m big on doing things the “right” way, so I wanted to make sure I had my ducks in line before heading to the hardware store lol.

 

[Jeff H Young]

jamesd42, I think the joints should hold up , they shouldn't just blow off, a little proactive looking under your sink once in a while helps too.

 

[Jamesd42]

jamesd42, I think the joints should hold up , they shouldnt just blow off, a little proactive looking under your sink once in a while helps too.

Perfect. I keep water sensors under there that alert me if moisture is detected. So if a leak springs up that’s enough to form a puddle, it’ll go crazy. I’m a little paranoid about water issues lol. I’ve seen it do as much damage as a fire (almost).

 

[Jamesd42]

Ok here’s my current plan. My intent is to allow me to change the supply stop in the future if it should wear out without having to trim more PEX from the wall.

-attach a 90 degree to the stub in the wall with crimp fitting.
-attach a small piece of PEX (which would be pointing towards the ceiling because of the 90).
-then attach a crimp supply stop to that.
That way in the future if the supply stop takes a crap, I can cut it off the 90 degree fitting and replace and the stub put from the wall remains untouched and crimped to the 90.

photos attached of fittings I would use.

would this look hokey to you guys or is it a good solution. I don’t want it to look like “amateur hour” work lol.

 

[Jamesd42]

Or am I over thinking this and should just pop a supply stop directly to the stub out and move on with my life lol?

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

You're way overthinking it. If you're going to crimp anything and you want a replaceable angle stop, Crimp on a male threaded adapter and buy threaded angle stops.

 

[Reach4]

I personally don't like the cinch clamps. In my opinion, you get a hot-spot where the clamp doesn't distribute force equally. That's why I prefer pex, using pex rings. Others here would probably disagree with me. How long do they last? I've got pex joints out there there are still alive and working fine after 30 years. So I'd say they definitely hold up to the test of time. If you want to extend the length a little bit, go with whatever you feel comfortable with. a little extra to work with is looking out for the next guy. so thumbs up.

If I ever wanted to use something other than expansion, I was thinking I would go with stainless clamps. What appealed to me was easier removal (unlikely to need that), and single tool for multiple sizes. I now see they sell a crimp ring removal tools.

Your evenness of force thought makes sense. When you use a crimp ring, is the ring still smooth outside? I had wondered if there would be little mini-corrugations.

 

[Jeff H Young]

personally Id crimp, clamp or expand on a threaded adaptor possibly a 90 but preferably threaded. never ever to cut and crimp under there again . I've never used a barbed angle stop yet and not planning on it. I don't think I've seen one on a house before locally. don't know what the reason someone prefer a forever anglestop kinda like welding the hood shut on your car. not knocking other Ideas they just don't seem good to me

 

[Weekend Handyman]

If I ever wanted to use something other than expansion, I was thinking I would go with stainless clamps. What appealed to me was easier removal (unlikely to need that), and single tool for multiple sizes. I now see they sell a crimp ring removal tools.

Your evenness of force thought makes sense. When you use a crimp ring, is the ring still smooth outside? I had wondered if there would be little mini-corrugations.

Often there are two little nubs where the tool came together.

 

[Weekend Handyman]

What I like about the crimp rings is they seem to be slightly wider than the cinch rings. I would think this would give you a better chance of hitting both barbs on the pex fitting.

 

[Weekend Handyman]

You know, looking at your picture, it occurs to me that you really don't have a lot of pex or space to work with. How big a deal would it be if you end up needing to go into the wall? If would be a really big deal, I might be inclined to leave it alone or at least setup a dry run where you cut the pipe and crimp on a fitting while working under similar constraints. I am not a plumber.

 

[Michael Young]

If I ever wanted to use something other than expansion, I was thinking I would go with stainless clamps. What appealed to me was easier removal (unlikely to need that), and single tool for multiple sizes. I now see they sell a crimp ring removal tools.

Your evenness of force thought makes sense. When you use a crimp ring, is the ring still smooth outside? I had wondered if there would be little mini-corrugations.

Personally, I prefer tried and true pex rings. Just make sure when you crimp, you keep your tool square to the ring. Otherwise you'll get a weird sorta misshapen ring (potential future leak)

 

[Jamesd42]

Here’s an update.

I cut off the compression stop. Attempted to crimp a new angle stop on, but due to the angle and trying to get around the toilet, I must have not held the crimpers straight enough. Exactly what Michael young said about, the ring was slightly slanted and just didn’t look “right”. So I had to cut it off, and the only thing I could fit was a stainless cinch clamp. I got a good clamp and it’s water tight. Crises averted. Hopefully the cinch clamp holds strong. If a future leak develops, I’ll have to cut into the wall and see tend the stub out. But not the end of the world.

 

[Jamesd42]

Since all my stub outs are very short and likelihood of getting a good crimp is slim, would you guys recommend a stainless cinch clamp, or a shark bite? What’s more reliable. What would you pros do?

 

[Weekend Handyman]

I am not a plumber. In terms of reliability, I would not hesitate to use the cinch claps in a wall. I wouldn't use shark bites in a wall. In terms of your application, I wonder if you would have trouble with shark bite if you go to push it on and the pipe goes with it.

 

[Jadnashua]

A little background. PEX-A is generally used with expansion tools. The fitting won't fit inside the pipe prior to you expanding the tubing. Once inserted, the memory of the tubing collapses it and creates a watertight seal with no further actions. The tubing itself (with the reinforcement ring) acts like its own crimp ring.

With the other types, the ridged fitting slides into the pipe, and you need something to create pressure to seal things. You can do that with a compression fitting by turning the nut (no special tools required) or by compression a ring around the fitting onto the ridges of the fitting. Both a compression fitting and PEX-A will have less restriction than a crimped pex fitting, maximizing volume and minimizing pressure loss in the water flow.

With PEX-A, you're relying on the memory of the tubing and the fittings tend to have differently shaped ridges (narrower) to help with the seal. On the others, you're relying on compressing the ring properly.

FWIW, every fitting, especially crimped pex ones, create more dynamic pressure loss. The benefit of pex is you can often run it with only a fitting on either end...not numerous ones along the way. IMHO, running it like copper is a big waste of capabilities and capability and costs more, and has more opportunities for leaks.

 

[Jamesd42]

A little background. PEX-A is generally used with expansion tools. The fitting won't fit inside the pipe prior to you expanding the tubing. Once inserted, the memory of the tubing collapses it and creates a watertight seal with no further actions. The tubing itself (with the reinforcement ring) acts like its own crimp ring.

With the other types, the ridged fitting slides into the pipe, and you need something to create pressure to seal things. You can do that with a compression fitting by turning the nut (no special tools required) or by compression a ring around the fitting onto the ridges of the fitting. Both a compression fitting and PEX-A will have less restriction than a crimped pex fitting, maximizing volume and minimizing pressure loss in the water flow.

With PEX-A, you're relying on the memory of the tubing and the fittings tend to have differently shaped ridges (narrower) to help with the seal. On the others, you're relying on compressing the ring properly.

FWIW, every fitting, especially crimped pex ones, create more dynamic pressure loss. The benefit of pex is you can often run it with only a fitting on either end...not numerous ones along the way. IMHO, running it like copper is a big waste of capabilities and capability and costs more, and has more opportunities for leaks.

That makes a lot of sense. I appreciate the insight.

I don’t believe this house has PEX A.


I’m hoping the cinch clamps can be reliable where I can’t fit the crimpers. I feel like a cinch is more reliable than a shark bite long term. At least from the impressions I’ve gotten on this forum?