Need your help installing a shutoff valve!

[Kevp]

A pro would cut the pipe behind the coupling, slip off the plate behind, put a new one on, slide a compression angelstop onto the pipe and tighten.

The toilet would stay. Why move it?

The new flexible supply line may need to be a 16"
They come with their own seals, throw a wrench or plies on it and you are done.

Thanks Terry! I think I might have to think about this one. I wish I have enough funds to just hire a plumber. Anyway, here are some measurements. It seems like a coupler starts from 1.5" and ends at 2.75." The entire thing is 4.25." It seems like the deepness of compression angle stop is about 1/2." I know a mini cutter cuts about 1/2" to the point, because the blade is in the center. If you know a cutter that starts from the beginning, please let me know. Also, I have to count in the measurement of deepness of a plate. There is no room for a hacksaw unless I remove the toilet. It seems like this is something it might take an entire day. I have enough things to tackle in this old house that barely stands. I also have to tackle a drywall and roof issue before it starts to snow.

After the measurement information, do you still advise to just cut it off? Please reply. I want these projects to be over for few months. This newbie needs a break. Thanks.

 

[Ian Gills]

I'll let Terry reply, but in response to an earlier point on brass versus copper...

BRASS:
Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc. So it has a lower melting point than copper. Brass becomes brittle after years. It takes better a polish than copper. And it is a worse conductor of heat and electricity. It takes more preparation to paint and will not hold paint as well as on steel. Can be chemicaly blackened.

COPPER:
Easy to work but it hardens. Needs to be anealled or it will break. Softer than brass. Very good conductor of heat and electricity. Easy to solder or braze.

And then of course we have cheap, Chinese copper fittings.....

 

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[Kevp]

By the way, thanks a lot for all of you contributing. I wish forum like this existed few months ago. It would have saved tons of headaches. I got to learn when it comes to plumbing.

 

[Ian Gills]

Keep learning and keep logging in Kevp.

I was a junior member once but if you keep going, and try really hard, one day you might become like me and graduate to the title "homeowner".

 

[Probedude]

do you still advise to just cut it off?

I would.

If you can't get a regular framed hacksaw in there, can you get one of these in there?

Reach around from the other side of the toilet?

Regarding it's too short to solder - you can do it - pretty easily but why bother? (the secret is to get it hot quick before the whole length of the pipe gets so hot that the joint in the wall start melting the solder out. Use a scrap piece of sheetmetal as a heat resistant shield against the tiles)

With the compression stopcock you can align the valve outlet exactly where you want it vs "hmm - it's too loose in this position but too tight if I go another full turn".

Just cut it, file it square, deburr, clean up with a scotchbrite pad, put a new plate, then a compression stopcock. It would be done faster than all these discussions.

Dave

 

[Verdeboy]

What's wrong with using a tubing cutter, or even a Dremel with cutoff wheel?

 

[Kingsotall]

Only time I've seen copper pipe sawed was with a sawzall and it was being ripped out.

 

[Probedude]

What's wrong with using a tubing cutter, or even a Dremel with cutoff wheel?

For the tubing cutter, if there's room, sure!
I wouldn't use a dremel though for these reasons
- the cutting discs break easily
- copper does not cut easily with an abrasive wheel which is what the cutting disc is made of
- good luck getting a concentric circle around the pipe
- the angle the cutting disc makes with the pipe is not square AND the body of the dremel is going to get in the way when you try to get all around the pipe.

Using a dremel will only result in much frustration.

Only time I've seen copper pipe sawed was with a sawzall and it was being ripped out.

So that means you cannot cut copper pipe with a hacksaw blade?

Sometimes it's your only choice when it's too tight to get tubing cutter in there. It'll be pretty easy to cut his pipe - both ends of the cut can be pretty rigidly supported.