Moving bathroom sink drain

[Don_P]

When roughing in my basement bathroom, the plumber missed hitting the wall. He went over the drain tile, instead of going under it and back into the wall. Now with the layout of my bathroom vanity, the drain is in a very bad spot. Is their any way of moving this over without having to tear out the concrete and redo the drain?

I know I can make the drain come straight out of the bottom of the vanity, but I'd rather have it coming out the wall, to have more vanity options.

Can I extend the drain, keeping it as tight as possible to the floor and then move it into the wall where I want it??

 

[Jeff H Young]

sure offset down low cabinet should cover . happens a lot sometimes a beam is in the way

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

If you can't or don't want to remove concrete and you want the drain to extend to the wall, you will need to use a fitting to offset the drain horizontally to the wall. Most cabinets have a Toe Kick that is around 4" high so you want to target that as your max height to the top of your drain when it gets to the point at the wall. The drain must have slope in the horizontal position of 1/4" per foot. Your vanity can rest on top of your finished floor, so you can add that height to your overall dimensions that you have to work with. You may be able to simply glue an offset fitting onto the existing pipe at the floor, or you may need to remove the pipe in order to get lower if needed.

 

[Don_P]

sure offset down low cabinet should cover . happens a lot sometimes a beam is in the way

It was because their was drain tile in the way. Plumber didn't want to go under it, so he went over it at a slight angle and when framing the wall, the drain was away from the wall.

 

[Don_P]

If you can't or don't want to remove concrete and you want the drain to extend to the wall, you will need to use a fitting to offset the drain horizontally to the wall. Most cabinets have a Toe Kick that is around 4" high so you want to target that as your max height to the top of your drain when it gets to the point at the wall. The drain must have slope in the horizontal position of 1/4" per foot. Your vanity can rest on top of your finished floor, so you can add that height to your overall dimensions that you have to work with. You may be able to simply glue an offset fitting onto the existing pipe at the floor, or you may need to remove the pipe in order to get lower if needed.

Does it matter how many fittings I use, as long as it maintains the 1/4" per foot of slope? I believe I "dry fit" it with a 60 to jog it over towards center of the 2 studs, small piece of pipe, to a 45, then a very small piece of pipe and then a 90 fitting to get me in the center of the stud bay.

Should I have used a long sweep 90?

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

Yes, you can use whatever fittings you need, so long as they're drainage fittings and not Vent fittings, to get it accomplished. Just make sure to add a cleanout up top and you're good.

Is that backwater valve accessible? Speaking of cleanouts. Any cleanouts upstream of that BWV need to be labeled to warn anyone with a snake that there is a BWV downstream and to remove its flapper prior to snaking.

That is a really weird place for a BWV.. right in the floor in the bathroom in front of the toilet.

 

[Don_P]

Yes, you can use whatever fittings you need, so long as they're drainage fittings and not Vent fittings, to get it accomplished. Just make sure to add a cleanout up top and you're good.

Is that backwater valve accessible? Speaking of cleanouts. Any cleanouts upstream of that BWV need to be labeled to warn anyone with a snake that there is a BWV downstream and to remove its flapper prior to snaking.

That is a really weird place for a BWV.. right in the floor in the bathroom in front of the toilet.

Yes, it's accessible, I covered it with a pocket and poured concrete around it. I'm planning to get the shallow access sleeve for it and having a flush cover on top.

That was my thought as well, about the location of it. I'm assuming the plumber didn't want to find where the sewer pipes were, or cut out more concrete. In their defense, I'm not sure if their would have been a better location based on the finishing layout of our basement as most of it will be carpet and the way the pipes layout from what I can tell, avoid's the unfinished area.

This is all just a guess though.

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

Yes, it's accessible, I covered it with a pocket and poured concrete around it. I'm planning to get the shallow access sleeve for it and having a flush cover on top.

That was my thought as well, about the location of it. I'm assuming the plumber didn't want to find where the sewer pipes were, or cut out more concrete. In their defense, I'm not sure if their would have been a better location based on the finishing layout of our basement as most of it will be carpet and the way the pipes layout from what I can tell, avoid's the unfinished area.

This is all just a guess though.

Good news with the BWV. There have been times that I've had to place them in finished floors too and its something I try to avoid as much as possible.

 

[Don_P]

Good news with the BWV. There have been times that I've had to place them in finished floors too and its something I try to avoid as much as possible.

Any tips on how you finished it, or made it work in the finished area? I'm thinking of possibly throwing a rug over it? I was going to install a heat mat under the flooring in the bathroom, a rug might defeat that purpose or cause issues??

I could go a glue down vinyl plank over the cover and all and just cut it out?? That way it would look like it was part of the floor and you couldn't see it, as well as, still having access to the BWV.

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

In one instance with plank flooring, a very well scribed piece was cut to match. But it wasn't in a high traffic spot. In another instance a stainless cleanout cover was used (looked horrible IMO)

I think the BWV you have is the Sioux Chief version, which has a fairly nice riser kit available. I would think a skilled carpenter / floor installer could attach whichever flooring you have to that lid. Maybe recess a strong magnet to the underside, so lifting it would use a chunk of steel.. Or vice versa.