Low water pressure - Fleck 7000 SXT

[JohnnyO]

Greetings all,

I've had my Fleck 7000 SXT-based water softener for about 7.5 years now. I installed it in April 2013 after advice from here and others. Over the last few days my wife and I noticed reduced water pressure -- especially noticeable when running a faucet and flushing a toilet. Water pressure to the house is fine. After reading a few notes here, I put the water softener in bypass, and the problem went away, so somehow the water softener is the culprit. My house in Minnesota is on city water.

I read notes about replacing resin, but are there any other less drastic things to try? [I _still_ find some resin beads around the basement floor after I spilled some during installation back in 2013! ] And if it comes to replacing the resin -- are there instructions around? I still have the service/installation manual, but it is _very_ thin on details.

Thanks for any advice!

John

 

[JohnnyO]

Turns out -- back in 2013 I noted which installation manuals I used, right here in the forum! That covers me on the details of installation, but I'd still be glad for any advice on other steps to try first.

One of the manuals refers to cleaning the injector - which I've never done. Perhaps I should start there.

John
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Here are the installation documents I used:

1) The Ohio Pure Water documents (I know you have this one)

2) Quality Water for Less
http://www.qualitywaterforless.com/v/vspfiles/downloadables/fleck/70SXTINS.pdf

3) Clean Water Store
http://www.cleanwaterstore.com/technical/water-treatment-guides/Softeners/7000_Softener_startup.pdf

4) Abundant Flow Water
http://www.afwfilters.com/support/installation/softener/Softener7000SXT.php

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

Turns out -- back in 2013 I noted which installation manuals I used, right here in the forum! That covers me on the details of installation, but I'd still be glad for any advice on other steps to try first.

You very probably need new 10% crosslinked resin.

Does your water tend to have a chlorine smell? The more chlorine/chloromine, the harder it is on the resin.

 

[JohnnyO]

You very probably need new 10% crosslinked resin.

Does your water tend to have a chlorine smell? The more chlorine/chloromine, the harder it is on the resin.

There is a bit of a chlorine smell - but I've lived in this house for 30 years, and I'm sure I'm used to the smell.

Looking at my initial order, this is what I received as far as resin:
Softening Resin (1.5 cuft): NSF Approved High Capacity Cation 8% Crosslink Softening Resin (Imported)

Any suggestions of 10% cross linked resin, and where I should order/purchase it? And if there are any instructions or useful tips, I'd take them. I'd guess I'd need to somehow dump it out, save the gravel, and then reload, but I can see that being very messy.

 

[Reach4]

I have not done it. Siphoning out the water with a tube down the distributor tube will reduce the weight.

There are Youtube videos on swapping resin, and I suggest you watch more than one.

Some suggest sucking resin out with a wet-dry vac, and some just tip and dump.

A good funnel for the purpose should reduce spillage.

 

[JohnnyO]

I have not done it. Siphoning out the water with a tube down the distributor tube will reduce the weight.

There are Youtube videos on swapping resin, and I suggest you watch more than one.

Thanks for that suggestion. I watch a bunch of YouTube for various hobbies, but it didn't cross my mind for this process!

 

[Bannerman]

Flow reduction through a softener is almost always caused by damaged resin.

Any resin will be damaged by constant chlorine exposure but resin with 10% cross-linking will better tolerate chlorine compared to standard 8% cross-linked resin. Often, the resin supplied with softeners sold online will have less than 8% crosslinking so the resin lifespan will be further reduced.

Chlorine damage is cumulative and varies by the quantity of chlorine inn the water. Many municipalities now use chloramine for water disinfection which will cause the resin to be in contact with ammonia in addition to chlorine.

Once resin becomes damaged, it will require replacement. To test for damage, remove the control valve to obtain a small sample of resin from the top. Damaged resin when squeezed will feel mushy whereas undamaged will feel granular, similar to beach sand.

Replacement resin could be 10% cross-linked which should provide longer usable life. Another option will be to remove chlorine or chloramine prior to the softener using a back washing carbon filter contains GAC or catalytic carbon. When the chlorine is removed prior, standard 8% could be utilized.

 

[JohnnyO]

Flow reduction through a softener is almost always caused by damaged resin.

Once resin becomes damaged, it will require replacement. To test for damage, remove the control valve to obtain a small sample of resin from the top. Damaged resin when squeezed will feel mushy whereas undamaged will feel granular, similar to beach sand.

Thanks for the info. I'll check the resin in the next couple of days.