Is this water softener installed correctly?

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Happy Tom

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Hello All,
I recently replaced a 22 year old Culligan unit with a new unit featuring a Clack valve from a local water conditioning company. Please take a look at the pictures of the install, I'm wondering if he used the proper elbows for the diameter of piping, they seem to be smaller. Could this cause a restriction when multiple appliances are using water simultaneously?

Thanks Softner Connection 1.jpg Softner Connection 2.jpg
 

Caldezrat

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I'm not familiar with that type of elbow and hose configuration. What is the manufacturer of that? It looks like it's a possible restriction. Also is that a sharkbite fitting next to your Clack by-pass assembly?
 

Happy Tom

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I'm not familiar with that type of elbow and hose configuration. What is the manufacturer of that? It looks like it's a possible restriction. Also is that a sharkbite fitting next to your Clack by-pass assembly?
He told me that it was pex tube with compression fittings. Also that it was the same i.d. all the way through. Looks to me the the elbow is smaller. He said this was due to less material..... Just doesn't seem right to me, but I'm not a plumber. Thanks for any input.
 

ditttohead

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Looks fine. The flow of a plumbing system is more of a velocity/resistance calculation rather than a simple ID.
Slight reductions in the pipe ID will typically cause an increase in velocity but is unlikely to be noticed as lower pressure.

A simple example is a 3/4" pipe may have a UPC code rating of 12 GPM based on velocity (FPS), but its actual possible flow could be in excess of 40 GPM.
 

Happy Tom

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Looks fine. The flow of a plumbing system is more of a velocity/resistance calculation rather than a simple ID.
Slight reductions in the pipe ID will typically cause an increase in velocity but is unlikely to be noticed as lower pressure.

A simple example is a 3/4" pipe may have a UPC code rating of 12 GPM based on velocity (FPS), but its actual possible flow could be in excess of 40 GPM.
Thank You for the input, it is much appreciated!!
 

hj

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Reality check. The tubing is much smaller i.d., than copper tubing, and since plastic has to be thicker than copper, the fittings also have a very small i.d., so your g.p.m. will be compromised, but if you do not need "maximum flow" the end result may not be too noticeable. However, I do NOT use PEX for that very reason, unless I "upsize" it.
 

ditttohead

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Correct but also remember that PEX and most plastic plumbing has a much higher velocity rating than copper. Pex typically has a UPC and manufacturer design capability of up to 12 FPS, copper tops out at approximately 8 FPS for cold water and as low as 2-3 FPS for hot water... Check with your local plumbing codes for exact flow velocity calculations...
 
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