@$#&ing sink Part III

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Giantsean

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Sink weekend has been extended due to popular demand!

This would be the third thread in a week about the same sink, and the second issue w/ p-traps (I really need to tell my wife to shut up and let me buy ordinary sinks :p)

So tonight was the night to install the nice extra deep laundry sink. Great news is that sweating on new 1/4 turn straight shutoffs worked great, cleared the cabinet holes w/o mods, no leaks. Awesome.

Now two bits of bad news. First, the drain that came with the sink is essentially a piece of crap, with a highly suspect center screw into a plastic base, and a top piece that does not want to sit flush with the sink. Once it's all together and tightened it will just not sit straight top or bottom. I'm happy to buy a new one the problem though is that it needs to have an inlet for the overflow which is just a hose (probably some special metric or China-only size). Frankly I'm stumped at this one, unless I just suck it up and use copious amounts of putty or sealer on each side, and just not tighten it too much. Still, it's a BIG tub and having it let go while full would be very, very bad.

The second problem is, of course, the p-trap. The existing waste pipe is not only exactly in line w/ the sink drain but the sink itself is low due to its design. The wall bend is jammed in all the way to the bend - enough to make me nervous, but it will not line up. I think (hope) it is do-able but I'll have to make some mods. Would any of these work?

- cut the waste pipe back toward the wall and cut the tailpiece down to allow it to line up
- get an accordion tailpiece (I know you pros love those :p)
- move the entire sink left, which I really really don't want to do... especially since I already screwed it to the wall.

Opening the wall is not an option at this point, plus the pipe attaches horizontally to the stack vs. going down to the cellar, so it would be a giant PITA for a few inches.

This is the last bit of plumbing left to do on a renovation which has taken WAY too long.
As always... sincere thanks for the advice :)
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Giantsean

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Yea you can cut the tailpiece. It looks like you will need to cut the pipe at the wall and glue on a new trap adapter. If cutting the tailpiece does not give you enough space there are reversible J bends that will give you a little more space.

https://www.ferguson.com/product/dearborn-brass-1-12-in-p-trap-with-threaded-adapter-bagged-with-blue-washer-deap9703wbg/_/R-3864952?skuId=3864952&pid=ebnn_pla_pla product type nonshowroom_ntl_ggl_nbr_googlepla_generic&adpos=1o5&creative=93188379789&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=CI68__X7084CFcUdgQodrhQAFw

Thanks I figured that was the way to go. Trouble is I'm already so close to the wall that I may have to use an internal vs external trap adapter. Is there any code violation for like ZERO stubout?
 

Giantsean

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I can't tell how much space you have. It looks doable. You will have to measure and dry fit everything to see if it will work.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-1-2-in-PVC-DWV-Trap-Adapter-C480127HD112/100347086

Yeah looks like I only need to go about 3/4" and I have 1"+ to the wall so I think it should be fine.

Less fine is this UK sink drain setup, which is a bigger piece of poop than I first suspected. Not only is the sink hole not particularly well made (it's hard to see in the pic but the hole is not centered in the indentation, and it is deeply bevelled so there is no way to lay the flange flat), but the overflow provided is too big to even center or sit flat over the hole (on both sides). Can't believe this sink got such good reviews... maybe nobody has installed one yet :p
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