How to do shower wall corners.

Discussion in 'Shower & Bathtub Forum & Blog' started by pete c, Dec 15, 2013.

  1. pete c

    pete c New Member

    Messages:
    52
    Location:
    CT
    It is finally time to tile.

    I have a question about corners. Do I tile one wall up close to the corner, then the other wall so that it overlaps the first? Or, should I have them meet evenly and fill the void with caulk?

    The construction is kerdi over sheetrock with a few coats of ardex 8+9 as insurance which was recommended here. That sure was one expensive wall covering! The tile are 1 ft sq. 1/4 inch grout spacing. The corner tile on each wall will be an inch or so short of a full tile. (Wish I had laid this out better.)
  2. johnfrwhipple

    johnfrwhipple Bathroom Design & Build - North Vancouver, B.C.

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    Location:
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    post(s) deleted by John Whipple
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2014
  3. pete c

    pete c New Member

    Messages:
    52
    Location:
    CT
    John, Thanks for the reply. I know your thoughts on sheetrock and kerdi. I even agree with you. trouble is, all the stuff was already up when i read your posts regarding it. I did take your advice and go with the ardex as a little insurance. Hopefully it will all hold up. So I should just tile right up close, then overlap with a 1/8 joint and silicone it then? Thanks for all your help. Wish I checked in here before I put up that first piece of sheetrock. it i ever do another shower it will be ardex 8+9 over CB with kerdiband joints.
  4. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,156
    Location:
    New England
    Not going to start another argument, but there are 100's of thousands of perfectly functioning showers built per the Schluter recommendations - drywall is only one of several acceptable materials that have been tested and certified. As with anything, failing to perform good workmanship can create issues.

    If it meets your style considerations, on both the corners on the walls and on the wall/pan junctions, you can use one of the expansion joints designed specifically for that, and never have to deal with caulking. Schluter makes a bunch of them, but there are a few other manufacturers.

    Don't run any of your courses tight to the end wall - it needs a gap. If you use the Schluter engineered expansion joints, that's built-in. The gap should be at least the width of your grout joint in the field, but that is often way more than you need for the wall and tile next to it to cover those ends.

    Assuming there's tile on three sides, if you do the center side first, then get the other two walls and get the joint close, the silicon you do install is less visible and while your cuts are important, they're hidden more since it would be unusual to have your head against the wall staring at them, and impossible from outside. Same sort of issue with the floor/wall joint. While you can make it look good with the floor tile coming up to the wall tile, many people seem to like the look better with the floor tile under the bottom edge of the wall tile. To do that, you may want a ledger board, and start the first row you install up one, do the floor, then do the bottom row. It doesn't really matter, it's what looks best to you.
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2013
  5. johnfrwhipple

    johnfrwhipple Bathroom Design & Build - North Vancouver, B.C.

    Messages:
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    Location:
    North Vancouver, BC
    post(s) deleted by John Whipple
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2014
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