how to connect stainless threadless p trap arm 2" threadless plastic Stub-out drain

Discussion in 'Toilet Forum discussions' started by tomahawk9, Oct 5, 2009.

  1. tomahawk9

    tomahawk9 New Member

    Messages:
    11
    Location:
    Thailand
    how to connect chrome threadless p trap arm 2" threadless plastic Stub-out drain??

    The stub out is blue plastic, i think PVC.
    So PVC solvent and glue in A PVC 2"x1 1/2" reducer and then should be a simple enough to slide in the trap arm and close down the screw gasket?

    I know it should have a simple reducer?

    something like this one but instead of stimple adaptor a reducer?
    Mueller Industries 1-1/2" Trap Adaptor.

    here is a better example of the coupling
    http://plumbing.hardwarestore.com/52-333-pvc-unions-and-couplings/reducing-coupling-244350.aspx
    Reducing Coupling, 2" x 1 1/2"
    Model # 70121 by Genova Products
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2009
  2. dcelite

    dcelite Plumber

    Messages:
    132
    Location:
    Los Gatos, CA
    Use the reducer and then you can glue a 1 1/2" spigot trap adaptor into the reducer. It may stick out from the wall a little bit. I hope it's not going to be exposed.
  3. tomahawk9

    tomahawk9 New Member

    Messages:
    11
    Location:
    Thailand
    Thanks for the quick reply.

    is there any reason to think that plummers putty is better than actually sealing this with the reducer and the spigot trap adaptor ?

    Kohler suggests putty in one of its instruction manuals for a trap installation...
    ...doesnt make sense given my experience with this drain and the need for a full seal...
  4. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    27,230
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    trap

    The only reason NOT to use plumber's putty is that it would NOT work and WOULD leak. The rest of your posting is somewhat ambiguous. The normal way to connect ANY trap is to do whatever is necessary to install a trap adapter, and then insert the trap into it. IF you have a plain piece of 2" for the stub, then a 2" "TopKap" cleanout adapter, (which has a 1 1/2" ips thread in it), glued into the pipe, with a brass threaded trap adapter into it will give you the necessary connection, assuming this is a 1 1/2' or 1 1/4" tubular trap.
  5. tomahawk9

    tomahawk9 New Member

    Messages:
    11
    Location:
    Thailand
    Thanks so much for the reply

    I am driving a bit blind here.
    sorry to be ambiguous.
    it is a 1 1/2 tubular trap, from cotto, a local manufacturer.
    The stub out is clearly 2 inch.

    ***there are no master plumbers that i can find here in thailand and the standards/knowledge base is low.

    so i have been trying to troubleshoot it and work through a lot of issues in every fixture one by one - with a very low base of personal experience.!

    They indicated they dont want to put the proper fixtures on it because
    1) mostly they dont understand the principles
    (like installing the tail into the bottle trap without proper extention)
    (like installing the trap pipe into the stub out without even sealing...let alone putting the fixtures on...)
    2) they are lazy and take the easiest solution they can find
    3) they say it will be harder to open it up if they need to troubleshoot it / fix it later.

    They had putty to seal one of the bathrooms...but left the other two open.
    we started at a 30% solution...and now we are at 85% but still havent gotten a 100% solution and complete sewer gas elimination...

    Keep in mind that these are people who built out the wall behind the toilet too far and then couldnt drop the toilet on the top of the WC soil pipe so they just left the back end of it wide open blowing wind (and sewer gas up) and the local practice is not to install and offset flange (which is rare to find in the hard ware stores here), so then they have a solution to close the gap which would NEVER pass any inspection in a country where there was an inspector!
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2009
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