High Iron and smell- Should I buy this house? Help please

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog' started by yoxman13, Dec 1, 2008.

  1. speedbump

    speedbump Previous member

    Messages:
    4,540
    Location:
    Riverview, Fl.
    With all the experience I have had with high iron content, I wouldn't buy the place. It's a never ending maintenance problem. There is no equipment out there that the head and the nozzle venturi (if using KMNO2) won't plug up in a short time. I don't know of any way to clean out a backwashing head once plugged with iron, so look for a large expense down the road.

    Anyone who tells you their equipment will last for 7 to 10 years with 12 parts of iron is just blowing smoke.

    bob...
  2. yoxman13

    yoxman13 New Member

    Messages:
    4
    I'm out

    Thank you everyone for your replys. I have decided to cancel the contract on the house and get my deposit money back. From everything that I learned, with iron at 16ppm and a smell this bad, it is going to require more effort to keep this water clean than I am willing to do for this house. I have learned a great deal from this thead and will be ready to put in a system when I buy a house, which hopefully will have water that is a little easier to mangage.
  3. Gary Slusser

    Gary Slusser That's all folks!

    Surely you're joking or you don't know much about me. I would have told you to get the chlorine to work as it should have and saved you whatever you paid for the Filox filter plus, you still aren't getting all the iron out and are depending on the softener to get the last 1 ppm out.

    The chlorine should oxidize all of it and all odors unless chemical. You probably didn't have the feeder set up right, weakening solution or improper retention time.

    No it's based on what you've said here and my experience with all heavy minerals used for iron, manganese and H2S like greensand and Pyrolox etc..

    I have been a full line full time water treatment dealer since 1987. I have anything any one could need up to large commercial on 3" water lines. So yes I could have helped you as I said above.

    As to your pump only delivering 9 gpm, I'll bet you it can deliver more than 9 gpm. I suspect your measurement of the gpm is incorrect by using a 1/2" or 3/4" outside faucet or the same size boiler drain on the tank tee to measure it or, you measured the draw down gallons of the pressure tank which does not give you the gpm flow rate from the pump; it only gives you the time and gallons to refill the tank. IIRC, I mentioned that to you before and you told me that's what you did. I guess you still don't believe me. What that tells you is the time the pump runs to check if the pump is short cycling; not staying off for at least 60 seconds for up to a 1.5 hp motor/pump. The only way to do it right is to disconnect the incoming pipe from the pressure tank's tee, or out at the well by pulling the pump drop pipe some and running the pump to measure open discharge gpm. Ask any pump guy to check that out, although I've been one for a number of years.
  4. Gary Slusser

    Gary Slusser That's all folks!

    As I mentioned that's not a bad choice especially if the seller won't come down. But the same equipment is used if the iron is over say 5 ppm the amount of iron and odor. Only the size of filters changes.
  5. drick

    drick In the Trades

    Messages:
    392
    I get all or almost all the iron out (I only have test strips which appear read 0 after filtering) and I DO NOT use a water softener. It seems the filox filter pulls out most of it and the centaur gets the remainder.

    Hmm, maybe. I airate my water before the chlorine feed. I rely on that to oxygenate the water to some degree so I can set the chlorine feed as low as possible. By the time the water gets to the centaur tank the residual chlorine is down to 1ppm (starts out at 4ppm). This seems ok to me. Weakening solution is no doubt a problem on some level. I did consider adding a tank mixer, but at the moment the water is okay and I don't want to complicate things more than I already have. I try not to mix more that 1 month of solution at a time.

    I don't see how. You can't get water where there isn't any. That is, short of a bigger pump, a storage tank, or redrilling the well I'm not going to get more water for backwashing my filters. Thats my problem in a nutshell. When the pump fails I'll most likely be in a better financial position and I'll redrill deeper in search of more water, but until then I'm stuck.

    Your correct it was a 1/2 inch outside faucet, but I allowed the pump reach a point where it stopped cycling before I took the measurement (9 gpm).

    Probably, but not much more and not for long. The well is 375 feet deep, recovers at +/- 2gpm and has a 5 gpm pump set 20 feet off the bottom. Static water level is 6 feet below the top of the well head. The lousy recovery rate coupled with the fact I run an irrigation system off this well in the summer doesn't make me feel too comfortable about upsizing the gmp of the pump.

    I'm aware of this. However, the fact that my pump stops cycling not too long after opening the outside faucet leads me to believe the pump doesn't have much more to give.

    Thanks for your input though, its been an interesting thread! When either the filox or the pump fails I'll go back and revisit the centaur not removing the iron problem.
    -rick
Similar Threads: High Iron
Forum Title Date
Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog Very High Iron with Low pH and Low Average Flow Rate May 29, 2014
Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog HIGH Iron in Manganese in well water! Recommendations? Nov 10, 2013
Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog high iron well water with greensand filter Nov 12, 2012
Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog High iron - failing filox system May 9, 2012
Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog High iron in water questions. Jun 28, 2009

Share This Page