Help with drain for steam generator and other fixtures

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by BimmerRacer, Feb 16, 2009.

  1. BimmerRacer

    BimmerRacer New Member

    Messages:
    174
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    We used to have a sink, a bidet and a toilet in this area. We are putting in a Toto toilet/washlet combo, a pedestal sink where the bidet was and a steam shower generator where the sink was. I am fairly certain I can just extend the old bidet drain and hook a pedestal sink to it. BUT, what do I do about a steam unit?

    The steam unit is a Kohler K-1733 and I have a Steamist drain pan for it.

    From below, the pedestal sink is going in the upper part of the picture
    [​IMG]

    From above
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Shower area
    [​IMG]
  2. BimmerRacer

    BimmerRacer New Member

    Messages:
    174
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    Actually, could I run a Pex drain line from the pan to the basement drain in our furnace room? Or should I run two lines? One for the drain and one for the pan? I don't need a trap for it correct as it's just a condensate drain?
  3. krow

    krow Plumber

    Messages:
    906
    Location:
    Ontario, Canada
    Well, I wouldn't say that its condensate drain. The pan is there in case the steam unit springs a leak.

    As far as the pex, There is no way to tell how it may react to really hot water or steam . I personally would run copper just so you don't have to mess with it again. If you connect both drain to a sanitary drain pipe, you will need a P-trap. Potentially if you were to run a single pipe or 2 lines into your furnace room, you could drop it in to a floor drain.
  4. iminaquagmire

    iminaquagmire DIY Senior Member

    Messages:
    207
    That issue seems to have been solved. While you're at it, fix the other drains, especially the one with the sagging Fernco. That is why they are not allowed above ground. You also need to get rid of the santees and replace them with wyes. Santees should never be on their sides or backs like that. The the one on the toilet arm should be a reducing wye as well instead of the way it is with all of the bushings. Staple the romex down too. It should never be left loose like that.
  5. BimmerRacer

    BimmerRacer New Member

    Messages:
    174
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    Romex is loose because I am in the process of a rewire and had to sister the joists as well. That is not to say that I didn't find some goodies in the walls with respect to electrical. Painters tape on connections, hot wires which went to nowhere and were exposed, etc. :eek:

    As for the other stuff, will this do?

    [​IMG]

    - cut the 2" between the toilet and santee and before the 90 on the other side
    - add a wye
    - extend where that 90 is so that it lines up with the new pipe coming out of wye without using the coupler.
    - run the drain to the pedestal sink and pray it lines up with using some 45s

    Good plan?
  6. BimmerRacer

    BimmerRacer New Member

    Messages:
    174
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    As far as drain pipe for the steam, Aquapex rated 200°F at 80 psi, 180°F at 100 psi, and 73.4°F at 160 psi. Seems like it would work?
  7. BimmerRacer

    BimmerRacer New Member

    Messages:
    174
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    Actually, that's not the right plan. I don't need that branch anyway. I can use the other drain which is turned to steam generator side. I can install a new santee (or a wye?) And run the pedestal sink drain into it, right? I'll still redo that other run to ditch the coupler and the santee.
  8. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    27,267
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    drain

    There is little about that drain system that is done properly, and unless you are in WI, the pedestal trap should not be below the floor, regardless of how it lines up.
  9. BimmerRacer

    BimmerRacer New Member

    Messages:
    174
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    The new trap will be above the floor. What else is not proper that I can fix?
  10. iminaquagmire

    iminaquagmire DIY Senior Member

    Messages:
    207
    Regardless of how you plumb the pedestal in, you still need to fix the drain for the toilet and bidet. You could possibly tie the pedestal into the drain by the steam generator but I can't see in your pictures where anything goes. The steam generator could potentially be plumbed into the old drain for the sink too. You could do that for at least the pan. I don't know what the requirements are for the steam drain.

    Disregarding the other drain where the sink was before, this is what I would do. Just remember you want your rough-ins tight for the supply and drain for the sink so they fit in the pedestal. You also don't want either the sink or the toilet to be offset too far from the finish wall. Keep those things in mind when you rough it all in.
    [​IMG]
  11. BimmerRacer

    BimmerRacer New Member

    Messages:
    174
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    I am not sure I can actually do much with that toilet part. It's elbow into elbow with no pipe to speak of in between. Remember, the bidet is gone, so I don't need that floor drain.

    The pedestal is going across the toilet, behind the generator. Why can't I use an existing DWV which was basically right there for an old sink?

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Feb 17, 2009
  12. iminaquagmire

    iminaquagmire DIY Senior Member

    Messages:
    207
    You can use the existing line for the sink. You must still fix the drain from it leading to the toilet though. Cut the sanitary tee off just past the 22 1/2 degree fitting. Cut 1/2" slices into the pipe inside the hub of the 22 1/2 degree fitting being careful not to cut into the hub itself. Carefully pry the sections out. Once a few come out, hopefully the rest will too. Sometimes this works, sometimes it doesn't. There is also a tool called a Rambit just for this purpose; drilling pipe out of a hub.
  13. BimmerRacer

    BimmerRacer New Member

    Messages:
    174
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    Are you talking about replacing this santee here? Because its on its side and should be a wye?

    [​IMG]

    I do have a pipe hog I used to cut the old closet flange out, looks like it's the same size, right?
  14. iminaquagmire

    iminaquagmire DIY Senior Member

    Messages:
    207
    Yes, that's what I was talking about. The angle looks off on the santee, like its not fitted properly into the 22.5 degree fitting. Maybe you'll get lucky and it'll pull off with a little help, but if not, the Pipe Hog is the same tool. It should work perfectly. You can use a reducing wye and bend to put it all back together so you don't need the bushings in the hub like are there now.


    If you're feeling ambitious, you can cut it all back to the stack, turn the santee so you don't need the 22.5 degree bend, replace the reducing bushings for the vent with reducing fittings and be extra golden.
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2009
  15. BimmerRacer

    BimmerRacer New Member

    Messages:
    174
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    What do u mean when you say "bushing"?
  16. BimmerRacer

    BimmerRacer New Member

    Messages:
    174
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    Never mind, I see. That thing with a nut. :D Got it!

    I am not sure how ambitious I am, that it s tight spot

    [​IMG]
  17. BimmerRacer

    BimmerRacer New Member

    Messages:
    174
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    And I really do not want to cut into that joist anymore!
  18. iminaquagmire

    iminaquagmire DIY Senior Member

    Messages:
    207
    As long as you correct the issue with the Fernco on the sink drain line and the santee on the toilet arm you'll be good.

    Just a tip, When you put the elbow back for the toilet, use a reducing closet bend. That way, you can insert a 4" diameter PVC riser, put your subfloor and tile in, then just trim the riser off flush with the finished floor and put an inside fit 4" flange in. This saves you from holding back the subfloor and tile in order to put the hub of 3" flange on the outside of the pipe.

    [​IMG]
  19. BimmerRacer

    BimmerRacer New Member

    Messages:
    174
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    Awesome, thank you, very much!
  20. BimmerRacer

    BimmerRacer New Member

    Messages:
    174
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    It looks like my toilet trap size is like 2.5" or so (Toto Soiree). Does it matter if I use a 4" flange? Or 3" for that matter?
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