Getting started with used equipment

[kefxb24]

For $60, I got two media tanks, a brine tank, and three control valves from a guy who changed to city water. The system has not been used for many months.

Attached is a photo of his original three tank system. I got the two 10”x54” tanks on the left. The softener tank is half full with an orange and black a resin. The second tank is completely full with a fine, black media. The guy mentioned one of the tanks was for iron and that media needed to be added to the rightmost tank when it fell below the black band.

The three Fleck control valves are:
-5600
-2510
-5600 SE

- Attached are my water test results. Note the Potentially Corrosive result.
- Our home has two adults, two teenage boys and 2.5 baths.
- Scaling and brown stains in shower and tub. Dishwasher leaves spots and residue. Faucets parts leaking.
- Inside consumption averages 8000-9000 gallons per month.
- Outside usage is not part of the monthly average, as it is segregated and passes through a separate meter to avoid inflated sewer fees.
- Our water is provided by Aqua of PA. Link to water report: https://www.aquaamerica.com/WaterQualityReports/2020/PA/PA1460073.pdf

1. For the softener tank, should I add media or fully replace?
2. What are the suggested salt and regen settings for the 5600?
3. Any thoughts on the tank filled with black media?

Thank you.

 

[Bannerman]

The rightmost tank appears to be an Acid Neutralizer which will be utilized to increase the water pH from an acid pH to 7 pH which is neutral or >7 slightly alkaline which may reduce the corrosiveness of the acid and will allow iron reduction media to perform more effectively. PH is not the only cause of corrosiveness.

Media utilized in an acid neutralizer is commonly Calcite, but will often also contain some Corosex when pH is significantly lower than 7.0. To increase pH, Calcite and Corosex will be dissolved into the water which will further increase the amount of hardness in the water above the level of hardness in the raw water.

Because your report indicates pH of 7.25, it would seem that an acid neutralizer will not be needed or beneficial.

Suggest removing some iron reduction media from the center tank so as to photograph it as someone on the forum may be able to identify the specific media from the photo. As your report indicates an iron quantity of less than 0.05 mg/L and manganese of <0.005, it would seem a dedicated iron removal system is not really needed. Does your water exhibit any odour such as sulpher?

A 10" X 54" tank is appropriate for 1.5 cubic feet (ft3) of media which should normally fill 2/3 of the tank height.

The Fleck 5600 softener valve appears to be a time clock version now rarely used for softener applications. Upgrading to a metered control valve will allow more efficient operation and lower salt consumption as capacity regeneration will only occur once the programmed capacity has been depleted as opposed to regeneration after a set number of days regardless if capacity has been consumed or not.

Perhaps the Fleck 5600SXT filter valve currently atop the acid Neutralizer maybe reconfigured to be suitable for use for the water softener.

What type of piping is utilized in your home? What is the diameter of the main supplyline where the softener is to be install?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[kefxb24]

What type of piping is utilized in your home? What is the diameter of the main supplyline where the softener is to be install?

Incoming service line is 3/4" copper, with a 5/8" meter and pressure reducer set to 55 psi. Interior piping is all 3/4", largely copper with a small amount of CPVC.

Does your water exhibit any odour such as sulpher?

No odor of any kind.

Perhaps the Fleck 5600SXT filter valve currently atop the acid Neutralizer maybe reconfigured to be suitable for use for the water softener.

 

[Reach4]

Despite the label saying 5600SX, it is a 5600SXT. Just a quirk of labeling that confuses people.

To convert that 5600SXT to a metered housing, you would need a meter and injector housing and stuff inside. That would go where the brass plug is. Plus, I would think a brine valve. Not sure if I have Plus a brine tank, but you already have one it appears. You already have the green cap piston, which is one that would be used with a normal downflow softener.

The water testing is probably at or near the water treatment plant. In chlorinated water, water turns to rust, and settles in the pipe. Then when they do hydrant flushing, that iron gets washed out. But you don't need to deal with that at home. You probably do want a cartridge filter for the house water to take out particles. Somewhere between maybe 5 and 20 microns.

Chlorine over time degrades softener resin. So you would probably need new 10% crosslinked softener resin if used with chlorinated water. With your level of chlorine, the resin might last 10 or 20 years. Bad resin is mushy rather than having harder round balls. You could inspect that. Since this softener has been used with non-chlorinated water until now, the resin is likely perfectly good. If you will use that resin, don't let it dry out further.

You don't need an acid neutralizer. You don't need iron treatment. So what you could do is to use the timed softener temporarily, but later you may want to get a demand softener.



.

 

[kefxb24]

[QUOTE="
To convert that 5600SXT to a metered housing, you would need a meter and injector housing and stuff inside.
[/QUOTE]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the parts required to convert the housing and valve add up to more than 50% of a new unit, not to mention the hassle and responsibility of the DIY approach. I have DIY in my blood, but at some point it's not worth it. Am I missing something?

 

[Reach4]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the parts required to convert the housing and valve add up to more than 50% of a new unit, not to mention the hassle and responsibility of the DIY approach. I have DIY in my blood, but at some point it's not worth it. Am I missing something?

You are totally not wrong. You could keep the 5600sxt for potential spare parts, and get a new valve.

You could use the timed 5600 unit initially, and go to a 5600sxt demand controller later. You could do computations, but instead you might set the unit to go max (12) days between regens. You would do that by pulling only one tab on the skipper wheel out.

Another thing you could do is to unplug the unit power. It will continue to soften, but the clock will not run. If it goes say 24 days without much hardness leakage, you would know that a demand softener valve would save you about 50% on the salt. Alternatively you could make the unit not regen but keep the clock run by pushing all tabs in.

 

[Bannerman]

The 5600 appears to be a time clock version, but the distance the photo was taken makes this uncertain. As there is also a 5600 metered version offered, suggest posting photos similar to those taken today for the SXT so as to confirm. (Edit: I now saw your closer photo of all 3 valves which does confirm the 5600 is the TC model.)

The digital controllers are usually more straightforward to program and will allow settings flexibility, but the mechanical metered version will be all you actually need, and we can explain and assist with programming.

The photos you posted earlier confirm the SXT as only a filter valve that is not preconfigured with a softener injector/drain module (~$75) which incorporates the brine valve. Unfortunately, the gearing cam ($9) also needed for the brine valve to function is not installed in the head unit. A turbine meter would probably run ~$110 including the cable. I had hoped that in the off chance that at least some of those components may have been already installed to allow easier conversion to a softener valve.

 

[kefxb24]

Since this softener has been used with non-chlorinated water until now, the resin is likely perfectly good.

The resin does not clump and feels like very fine mush - very fine.

 

[kefxb24]

As there is also a 5600 metered version offered, suggest posting photos similar to those taken today for the SXT so as to confirm. (Edit: I now saw your closer photo of all 3 valves which does confirm the 5600 is the TC model.)

Pictures for clarity. I already had them.