Gas fireplace nipple broken off

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rcatty

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I have a wood burning masonry fireplace, with a gas log lighter. The gas pipe coming up through the floor of the firebox apparently contained a nipple that screwed into the female receptacle on the pipe. The nipple broke when I attempted to change the fittings on the log lighter, leaving a broken piece of the nipple inside the female housing of the pipe. The broken nipple looks like 1/2 galvanized ad is receded about 1/2 into the pipe. I will need to remove that piece of nipple to repair things. One problem is that I can't get behind the pipe to hold it in place while I attempt to use force or other means to extract the piece. Can you provide suggestions for it's extraction? Is there any danger in loosening connections to the gas pipe that I would not have access to repair as everything is sealed in brick? Thank you !
 

Plumber69

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I have a wood burning masonry fireplace, with a gas log lighter. The gas pipe coming up through the floor of the firebox apparently contained a nipple that screwed into the female receptacle on the pipe. The nipple broke when I attempted to change the fittings on the log lighter, leaving a broken piece of the nipple inside the female housing of the pipe. The broken nipple looks like 1/2 galvanized ad is receded about 1/2 into the pipe. I will need to remove that piece of nipple to repair things. One problem is that I can't get behind the pipe to hold it in place while I attempt to use force or other means to extract the piece. Can you provide suggestions for it's extraction? Is there any danger in loosening connections to the gas pipe that I would not have access to repair as everything is sealed in brick? Thank you !
Take a pic. Are you sure it's not a reduce bushing
 

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rcatty

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A few additional pictures
 

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hj

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That is a 1/2" coupling at the floor level and it should unscrew from the pipe below it, hopefully without also unscrewing that piece, (Which might no be too disastrous if it happens).
 

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That is a 1/2" coupling at the floor level and it should unscrew from the pipe below it, hopefully without also unscrewing that piece, (Which might no be too disastrous if it happens).
I'm not sure what piece you say is the 1/2 " coupling? The broken piece seems to be inside the pipe. Is what I am calling the pipe the coupling? Thank you
 

rcatty

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It could NOT be a pipe if the broken pipe goes into it. THAT "enlarged" piece at the floor, with the broken pipe in it, IS the coupling.
Thank you, that answers one of my major questions. So, then it appears that the "broken pipe" is actually a nipple that is broken. Yes? Is there any reason why I can't use a handheld hacksaw and slowly attempt to cut the inside of the nipple in 2-3 pieces so it can be pried out?
 

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I am aware of these tools. However, I thought that if I used a hacksaw I could "gently" saw through the nipple to the threads. I am concerned with disrupting the base pipe and connections as all pipes are concealed in the masonry, hardwood floors, and finished basement ceilings. Thus, I want to use very gentle pressure. My thought is that a mini-handheld saw would enable me to slowly and methodically cut the nipple to pieces without using torque, or undue pressure? In the meantime I am soaking the pieces with liquid wrench. Suggestions?
 

rcatty

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Why would you go to that much trouble, when you can grab the coupling with a wrench and unscrew it? It looks like it is projecting above the floor.

Are you talking about unscrewing the coupling that is housing the broken nipple, or unscrewing the nipple from the coupling?
 

rcatty

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What part of "grab the coupling with a wrench and unscrew it" did you miss?

Th coupling won't budge. For whatever reason, I think rust and time have set in. A few fireplace guys have mentioned that I need to be very careful about disturbing internal pipe connections that could cause leaks that I will not be able to get to to repair. All pipe connections are hidden within the masonry, floors and ceilings. Any leak would be a nightmare to repair. So, I have three choices: (1) try and remove the broken nipple from the coupling, and re-use the coupling with a new nipple; (2) try and remove the coupling with the broken nipple intact, then start over with a new coupling and new nipple; or (3) do nothing, and try and seal the broken nipple, and not use the gas supply.

Given the fact that I need to be cautious in removing the broken part, lest I disturb any connections, and given the fact that I am a DIY limited guy, I thought the safest thing to do was to try and free the broken nipple by slowly, internally, cutting it out. At least from a theoretical point of view, a handheld hacksaw applied with mild pressure should cut the nipple without excessive force. Since, I have never done this before, and given the environment where I am working I thought the best thing to do was ask for advice from seasoned guys. BTW I cannot see the bottom of the coupling as access is limited. I can see the top of the broken nipple.

I do appreciate your input and advice!
 

LLigetfa

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You cannot saw all the way through the broken nipple without damaging the treads in the coupling. Since it looks like the top of the coupling can be grabbed, I would hold it while trying to remove the nipple with an inside pipe remover. What is the ID of the nipple? You might try to find a straight fluted extractor instead of the type that expands more with more pressure against it. Straight fluted extractors don't put as much outward pressure against the threads. If you cannot find the size you need, you can use a fluted tap and grind off the threads.
220px-ScrewExtractors-square.jpg
 

rcatty

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You cannot saw all the way through the broken nipple without damaging the treads in the coupling. Since it looks like the top of the coupling can be grabbed, I would hold it while trying to remove the nipple with an inside pipe remover. What is the ID of the nipple? You might try to find a straight fluted extractor instead of the type that expands more with more pressure against it. Straight fluted extractors don't put as much outward pressure against the threads. If you cannot find the size you need, you can use a fluted tap and grind off the threads.
220px-ScrewExtractors-square.jpg
You are talking way above my pay grade ! Nipple ID? You mind as well be talking Greek to me. Fluted extractor? What would you hold the coupling with a large pipe wrench or vise grips?
 

LLigetfa

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ID = Inside Diameter.
Fluted extractor = see the picture.
Hold the coupling with whatever you have that works in the space you have.
 

Jadnashua

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If you do get that broken nipple out of there, what's left of the threads may or may not be sufficient to put in a new one. An inside pipe wrench uses a cam to try to lock the thing in place while you try to unscrew it. A fluted extractor is similar to a screw extractor in that it is tapered, and tries to grab the thing from the inside so you can try to unscrew it. Something like PB Blaster (or penetrating oil) applied on the threads and left for a couple of hours MIGHT make it easier to extract. The remnants will smell when you relight the fire until it burns off, but it's not catastrophic.

It's hard to tell for sure from the picture, but the pipe coupling appears to be locked in place by the cement or mortar. There's no way to cap the top of that line until you remove the nipple, or the coupler. I'm assuming there must be a shutoff somewhere accessible, otherwise, you'd have a constant flow of gas coming out of that pipe.

You'd have to deal with the metal chips, but you could drill it out with the proper sized drill then retap the hole with the proper pipe tap. The process of drilling and tapping would be going clockwise, so trying to tighten the existing other connections down below, and probably not compromise them. The proper size drill would not damage the existing female threads, then, the tap would cut new ones. This would get a little tricky. Once the body of the old nipple remnants was removed, you might be able to peel out what's left of the nipple as it would be mostly just the v-shaped portion locked in the coupling's threads.
 
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